Re: Re: The Automotive Thread I think the flush things that dealers / shops want to sell you are bullshit. But, that was quite a combination question you asked. I use SeaFoam quite a bit as a fuel additive. I pour a whole can in my gas tank about once every six months, and I have 285,000 on my Chevy Silverado. (I've never flushed the brake system or radiator, by the way.) Then, I also spread a can around in all my power tools, mostly right before I stop using them in the winter. The ethanol fuel sucks. It helps as a stabilizer and moisture control. I started up two lawn mowers, and my weedeater on the first pull last weekend. Especially my generator. When I first got it, since I didn't run it often, it wouldn't take long for the carb to get gummed up. Now, since I started pouring some SeaFoam in each time I fuel it, it's ready to go every time.
I really really hate other people working on my car. This is the second time I let someone touch it since I have owned it. The first was I wanted an alignment the second was 2 weeks ago. When I buy new tires I generally just bring my rims in(i have two sets) get them to install the new ones, and change them my self. Well I was lazy last year and just rode my winters all the way through the summer, put less then 1000km on, rode my motorcycle most the summer so it wasn't a big deal. Well this year I put my summers on so it would force me to get new tires, when i put them on, I realized that 2 of the four had the cords showing. So I found the best price in town and went and got a set, 2 weeks ago. On Sunday I looked at my car and realized I had a flat tire, FFS. So I jacked up the car, went to take off the first nut and just as soon as I started to put pressure on it, it fell off, FFS again. I got the other 3 nuts off, put my winter on, and start to hand tighten the nuts. The first one went right up to the face of the rims easily. The other two stopped half way, i couldn't tighten them by hand, FFS again. I have always been able to tighten the nuts up to the face of the rim by hand. But with a little more torque(put the wrench on the two nuts) they went on easily. So those fuckers snapped 1/4 studs, minorlly streched 2/4 stud, so that is 3/4 studs they fucked up. And i haven't even checked the other 3 wheels. This is why I really fucking hate other people working on my car.
In case any of you do that Reddit thing, I started up a sub over there a while ago called Shadetree. <a class="postlink" href="http://www.reddit.com/r/shadetree" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.reddit.com/r/shadetree</a> Feel free to drop by and check it out.
Ugh. Brought my car in because the steering was loose and the rear right wheel was vibrating at highway speeds. Got a call from the dealership with the findings and my worst fears confirmed: Most of my suspension is shot and needs replacing. $3700 estimate. I got a breakdown and I'm in the process of determining how I want to proceed; if and any of the work I want to do myself, and really just how much money I want to continue to put into this car. I just spent $2000 on engine repairs this winter; the car is 10 years old with 97k miles on it. List of the scope of work proposed: 1. mount and balance 2 new tires 215/50r17 (found rear tires at 5/32nds,rear tires abnormally worn right rear looks like it was driven on flat,side wall damage,nails in both tires) $310.00 2. plug right front tire (found nail in left front tire) $25.00 3. replace left and right rear lateral arms (found left and right rear lateral arm bushings bad and very loose) $698.67 4. perform 4 wheel alingment (found left and right rear lateral arm bushings bad and very loose) $117.00 5. replace right inner and outer tie rods (found right inner and outer tie rods loose) $394.74 6. replace rear struts (found rear struts to be leaking and possibly causing noise) $536.98 7. replace front struts (based on millage) $629.84 8. replace front and rear sway bar links and bushings (found front and rear sway bar links loose and bushings bad) $696.23 Tie rods and arms I'm considering doing myself, but I'm not as confident about replacing the struts on my own. Also getting the tires done elsewhere.
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread 3. replace left and right rear lateral arms (found left and right rear lateral arm bushings bad and very loose) $698.67 Look at these yourself, they are most likely fine. 5. replace right inner and outer tie rods (found right inner and outer tie rods loose) $394.74 Given your steering was loose I can see that being legitimate, if so then yes you need an alignment after the repair. 6. replace rear struts (found rear struts to be leaking and possibly causing noise) $536.98 They either make noise or they don't, a light film of oil is considered a normal condition, unfortunately mechanics use this to fuck people. Most likely bullshit. 7. replace front struts (based on millage) $629.84 Another bullshit repair, these people are trying to fuck you. 8. replace front and rear sway bar links and bushings (found front and rear sway bar links loose and bushings bad) $696.23 I have 13 years as a mechanic under my belt, never once replaced sway bar bushings, something to think about Tires/tie rods/alignment. Tell them to pound sand on everything else.
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread I think you're on the right track here. I'll check out that tie rod myself but I'm pretty confident it's fucked. I've never replaced a tie rod before but I'm mechanically competent and can follow instructions, so I'm not too worried about fucking it up too badly. The noise that's being referred to is the right rear tire vibrates when I'm driving down the highway; I thought it could be an unbalanced tire. Gonna bring the car to the tire place I usually go to and pay a more reasonable amount, and I'll probably just buy a new tie rod and replace it myself.
As I was driving home from work, I saw a Hyundai Genesis with a sticker that said SEGA on the top of the windshield. Clever fucker...
What kind of car is this? I took a 1997 Lexus to 282,000 miles on the original rear struts. I only replaced the front struts and mounts myself because the strut mounts made noise. I never replaced any other suspension components. It seems unreasonable that your car needs that much work at 97k miles. A second opinion is in order.
Dodge Stratus Good old Minnesota, where this past winter was absolutely brutal on the roads. I did as well as I could to avoid potholes, but hit a big one last Thursday, after which the steering started feeling loose. Guessing that's the one that got my tie rod.
Has anybody ever ordered from Atransmissions.com ? Or, have a recommendation about buying a reman tranny? 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500, 4x4, 4.8L 287,000 miles A couple days ago, it felt like overdrive was skipping or something. Around 1500 rpms, at 55-60 mph, slight uphill, it kind of stuttered. I thought it was misfiring at first, but there's nothing wrong with the motor. I could repeat the problem given the same conditions, but otherwise everything was fine. No sounds, clunks, skips, etc and if I "stomped it", it downshifted and acted normal. This morning it has started slipping in first gear and over-revving before settling into second. I am assuming it's the actual transmission and not something funky with the computer, or a simple pan drop / filter change. I know almost nothing -strike that - nothing, about transmissions, but I have put everyone of those miles on there. Sumpin ain't right, and I don't think it's simple. I am not brave enough to take apart a transmission and get all "clean room" on it, but I will take on just about anything I can do myself. (Well, with my buddy's help, tools and garage.) I have a shop I trust that I think I am going to take it to for diagnosis (or what limited diagnosis they can offer, other than "you're fucked"), but I am trying to prepare myself and my wallet for the next step.
CB Radio Installation Hey all- Looking for some advice on installing a CB radio into a vehicle. My current ride (94 Jeep Wrangler) doesn't have a stereo or CB in it, and I'd like to equip it with both before I trek back across the country. The features I'd like to have are: [*]CB audio output playable via the stereo speakers [*]Stereo with bluetooth for iPhone playback of podcasts, tunes, etc Anyone done that before? Most CB installs I've found online are standalone, with a small external speaker. Thoughts?
I live north of the Mason-Dixon line, and you could lose Gary Busey in any one of the fucking potholes around here. I'm looking at a snapped rear spring and two blown struts. About $1700.
Tie-rod ends successfully changed; that was pretty easy. Next up, rear lateral arms. I think I should also get points for not slapping the idiot at the auto parts store for trying to tell me I didn't know what model car I had.
Spent the day attaching a Smittybilt rear bumper/tire carrier/hitch to my Jeep, and rewiring the rear end to deal with existing shitty wiring and splice in a trailer connection. The undersides/wiring of a 20+ year old Jeep is fucking ugly. Also pulled off the old spacers on the tailgate, patched the holes, and plan on flap-discing and painting/bed-lining it tomorrow. Fun times.
Has anyone sold a car to CarMax? Do they pay a fair price? I have a couple of cars I'd like to get rid of and would rather be water-boarded than deal with the bozos that show up (or, more often, not show up) when you use Craig's List.
Replaced my rear lateral arms, however when I took it for a test drive sometimes my right rear wheel would skid/skip slightly when I was turning at low speeds. I'm guessing it's because having replaced several suspension components my car's badly out of alignment; I'm bringing it in to get aligned tomorrow. Other than that it seems the repairs were successful; I no longer have any steering play and I don't have the wobble in the rear. +1 for DIY.
Finished the heavy lifting on installing my new rear bumper/carrier/hitch. Pulled off the old tire carrier, patched the holes and repainted the hatch. Now just fabbing up a mount for the third brake light, and will bolt the actual carrier plate once that's done. Before: After:
Car shopping.... ugh, absolute pain in the dick. Being a young guy who's not very mechanically inclined makes it much worse. The two cars I've had I've bought off my grandfather as he used to be a mechanic and could spot out dingers that would make it a while without dumping thousands of dollars into them. I should point out I just moved to Anchorage and trying to go no higher than 3500 dollars. This is what I have so far. <a class="postlink" href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4440320024.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4440320024.html</a> <a class="postlink" href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4442254608.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4442254608.html</a> <a class="postlink" href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4459890696.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4459890696.html</a> <a class="postlink" href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4449818617.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4449818617.html</a> <a class="postlink" href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4440320024.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4440320024.html</a> As you can tell, I'm a car person. I would love to buy a jeep, but less then 20mpg doesn't sound to enticing in regards to my paycheck. Are any of these worth looking into? I've been trying to use Kelley blue book and a couple different sites as references, but god its such a hassle when you're not sure what to really look for. Are there any absolute things you should/shouldn't do when buying used?
Re: CB Radio Installation Most CB's have a jack for an external speaker, and I believe it cancels out the CB speaker when you plug it in. You should be able to run a pigtail off your stereo speakers to plug into your CB. Most of them have a jack for a PA speaker too, which is fun for yelling at morons. One thing I'd recommend is getting an antenna tuner. Most antennas are out of tune when you buy them, and tuning them will increase your range and signal clarity big time.