Finally finished the build and install of my motor. Still need to button up some misc shit before I'm back on the road but here is a little clip of it uncorked.
Definitely worth a watch if you have 20 minutes to spare. Chris Harris whipping around an F40 and F50
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread When you say "lost all power" do you mean you had no electrical power along with your engine dieing? Or did your engine just cut off and you still had all your electrical power? That DTC can set if your PCM is shorting internally or if your vehicle has low battery voltage to begin with.
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread Then I'd say your PCM is having issues, how often does it happen? You might be able to ride it out for awhile, of course you could end up getting stuck somewhere too.
A week ago I had new rotors and brake pads installed on my '09 Galant. Today I noticed that as I approach a stop or turn into a parking space, the front brakes, I think just on the driver's side, creaks intermittently and the frequency of the sound slows as I decelerate. What could it be and how concerned should I be?
How much did you pay for the brake job? Cheap pads make noise, it may go away with wear, does the vehicle pulsate or pull to the drivers side when you brake?
Provided that my fantasy football season continues as it has been going so far, it looks like I'm going to have some extra cash in the next few months, and I'd like to get some wheels for my 2012 Mazdaspeed3. The stick wheel size is 18 x 7, bolt pattern is 5 x 114.3. The wheels I have in mind are going to be 18 x 7.5 at the smallest. Current tires are 225/40, and that seems to be the "right size" for the rim. If I go with the extra half-inch, will I need to get new tires as well? I'd rather not, them bitches are expensive. Also, if I do this, does anyone know of a good way to sell the stock wheels?
I just tried to swap the drivers side headlight in my girlfriend's '04 Honda Accord the other night, assuming it'd be an easy 5 minute job like the headlight swaps I've previously done. Holy hell, not that thing. Even after removing the steering fluid reservoir I barely had room for one hand to grip the light, and no way could my other reach in. It was cold and dark and I was feeling sick, so after 20 minutes of cussing at it I threw in the towel. She ended up taking it to a shop and they charged $30 for labor. Anyone know of a better way to swap out those bastard Honda headlight bulbs?
Nope. You are fucked. My Civic is just as bad or worse. One side it the battery i have to take out, the other side has a reservoir you have to move. Oh you want to talk about the side and turn signal markers that are part of the headlight assembly? You have to take the headlight assembly out. And to do that you have to take the front bumper off.
I think Boyfriend needs new tires, but Boyfriend doesn't agree. At present, my Echo handles the snow better than his Camry and is less prone to hydroplaning. I even offered to go halvsies with him since we use his car so much more than mine. I'm thinking about taking it in somewhere and just asking how much of a difference they think new/better tires would make and then reporting back. The tires don't look super bald, but we don't know exactly how old they are or how many miles are on them. Am I just being a crazy girlfriend or are these reasonable concerns?
If you're having a "your tires might need replacing" converstation with your boyfriend, then it's probably safe to assume he's not rotating them regularly. Since the Camry is front-wheel drive, if the front tires are more worn than the rear, you can definitely feel that slippage in wet pavement. So, you might buy yourself a little more time before replacement just having them rotated. But, without at least seeing a picture of them, especially one without a penny* in the photograph, I don't think people will be able to give you an opinion on their condition. *Basic wear check using a penny. ymmv
You're probably right. I only get my tires rotated when my dad reminds me to, and I don't think Boyfriend has the presence of mind or the right person bugging him to get them rotated. I will investigate front/rear wear discrepancies. Also, how many tires have to fail the penny test before I have the right to steal his car and get new tires put on it?
According to most states' laws, tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32" of remaining tread depth. To help warn drivers that their tires have reached that point, tires sold in North America are required to have indicators molded into their tread design called "wear bars" which run across their tread pattern from their outside shoulder to inside shoulder. Wear bars are designed to visually connect the elements of the tire's tread pattern and warn drivers when their tires no longer meet minimum tread depth requirements.
Ok, now that I have a little time to address it...I have a perplexing problem and I'm hoping one of you has run into it before. This is on a 1999 Dodge Durango (4WD) with the 5.9. A little back history: About a month ago I went to start it and had a dead battery, for no apparent reason. I jumped it and it fired right up, but it wouldn't idle. I replaced the IAC and everything was good. (And just for good measure I replaced the ignition switch because I had noticed that occasionally when turned to the OFF position the gauges would rise ever so slightly, and I figured that might be the reason the battery died.) Fast forward one month: I go to start my truck and the battery is dead, again for no apparent reason. I grab my jumper box and it cranks, but doesn't fire. Then I depress the throttle and VROOOM! She's alive!....and won't idle again. Ok, maybe I got a faulty IAC. But I also notice my fuel gauge is pegged full, when I know I have 1/2 a tank. A quick check and the IAC is slammed shut, so I replace it again. She fires right up....but....it's now idling at 2 grand and won't come down. I tried running it around the block, still at 2 grand. I goose it a few times, still 2 grand. And now my fuel gauge is reading dead empty. I checked all the fuses, and everything is good. So I turn to the internet and it turns out this is a commonly reported problem (Up to and including the fuel gauge issue), but no one seems to have a fix. I did run a voltage tester on the lead to the IAC and it doesn't appear it's receiving any kind of signal from the ECM. As a last ditch attempt I disconnected the battery before I went to work tonight in hopes that the ECM would reset and relearn its idle management variables. I'll hook it back up in the morning and cross my fingers. Any ideas? If it weren't for the dead battery/fuel gauge issues I'd be looking at the TPS, but I don't have a clue how it would have anything to do with the fuel gauge and dead batteries. Also the alt is strong as an ox, it's putting out about 14.5 and the battery is only a year old. And one last little quirk...sometimes when the ignition is OFF the security light flashes. The one option my truck doesn't have is a security system (This is also a fairly commonly reported issue with these trucks.)
It kind of sounds like have a few wires that are bare and are touching which is sending a little voltage back into the system, which causes really weird shit like you are having, or a wire is bare and barely touching a ground source, not enough to blow a fuse but enough that it will draw and sending positive voltage to other electronics. Take it to a shop let them hook it up to a parasitic draw machine overnight and they might be able to help you out. But it definitely sounds like your electronics are getting voltage from somewhere other then they are not supposed to be.
Does anybody have experience with a 4th generation Toyota 4runner? I'm thinking of downgrading a bit from my 2012 Tacoma to a 2007 4runner. The Tacoma is an outstanding truck, but the fact is that I don't drive much, so I don't need something so new and nice. The Runner I found is a 4x4, and will be cheaper, believe it or not, than my current truck. I've yet to find any bad reviews on the 4runners. Thoughts?
Howdy folks. Quick question. Gas stations and brake places and all that are full of additives for better engine function, or better fuel economy and all that, and all for a bottle costing you about 7 bucks. Is there any product that has any noticeable benefit or it it all bullshit?
So I have enough time and money to be able to get a car to order when I get back to the states. Does anyone have any experience with that? Like, when I go to build the car on their site, there are all these options that I want, and then it gives me available models nearby that have almost none of those features. I plan to put like $20k down, just to have a nice low payment.