Really interesting how that worked out with your cedar, good to know. Patience I can handle, however dust is still one of the #1 issues I deal with in my workspace. Part of this is due to my tendency to use slower curing finishes that stay tacky for a long time versus stuff like lacquer that seems to set up instantly, but even then you will get it. I've also learned to change into a clean shirt right out of the dryer before finishing versus wearing something I've had on all day or I will get yellow lab hairs stuck to the finish- without fail. I resorted to making a crappy-but-decently-effective curing box a few years ago and it is still in use, it makes a dramatic difference versus just letting stuff hang out on a table or leaned up against a wall. This was a Waterlox gloss finish, good luck getting it this clean without something like that.
What do you guys do to handle dust when finishing work? I wait a minimum of 24 hours after sanding before I start applying any finishes and that seems to work fairly well. I don't know if there's anything I should do beyond setting up a dedicated paint area.
I would normally sand in the morning, wait a couple hours, go in with the vacuum and clean, and do my first coat in the evening.
For finer stuff, I just set up a little 1x1 frame with some plastic draped over it, with a box fan and filter keeping it a positive pressure environment, while running my big dust extractor on the outside to try and keep the dust constantly being pulled from the air. Before doing that, I blow out the environment as best I can with a high volume fan (the type used to dry carpets that have been flooded, found on Amazon for about $60), and try and get everything on the surface that is loose, out of the room.
This plus my halfass finishing box (see above), and I also change into clean clothes before starting the finishing too.
The weather has finally improved enough that I have been able to refinish the table top in place on the deck. I'm four coats in so far and it's easy to see the difference between this high quality Epifanes stuff and the crap that Home Depot sells. Two more coats of matte finish and it'll be done.
Im a stickler for work gloves. Best I've found (until now) is a compromise of good leather for the hard ranch work and then I just go bare hand for the fine stuff because I'd rather deal with a few splinters than not have that fine touch around what I'm working with. These are a game changer. Just put 10 hours of hard labor into them, both heavy construction stuff and fine saw finishing work. At $19 for 3 pair I felt like I was robbing someone, so I ordered another set. I recommend anyone thinking about a pair of work gloves, to heavily consider that.
And tell me you tried out dozens of others like I did? Hell I went through all kinds of leather ones building a Chris Craft with my father and he thought it was joking until I gave him a pair of mine. Dude was wearing something I think might have been blessed by Indians or some shit. Didn't works as well as what I got for $6 a pair.
Nope... I was doing a whack of yard work and only had mechanics gloves, and that was the first inexpensive option that came up on Amazon. Cheaper than any of the big box stores around here.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but is there a single mechanics glove that is better than bare hands? I've tried a few different pairs and I just don't get the dexterity I do with bare hands. Sometimes they grip a little better but at the trade off for dexterity, hell I don't take that trade off. Downside is occasionally I get burned, though those instances get fewer and further between the more I BBQ with bare hands.
When you're dealing with brakes, rotors, or anything that the 300 ft-lbs torque wrench is out for, dexterity isn't an issue... it's more to keep you from getting cut or bruised from dealing with big shit.
Ok, so THAT'S why my father in law told me to wear gloves. (67 Plymouth, long story and even longer build, she was beautiful though.) Am I the only one who'd rather deal with the bruises and injuries in order to feel what's going on? Maybe I just have a textile thing. I'd rather feel the bolts and chasis and what I'm working with and on. That's part of the experience for me. I feel like, with gloves, you don't know how to finesse it.
I had to get my dad to come by to help me remove a couple fallen trees in the back that my little chainsaw could not cut. Turns out 2 of the fallen trees were a cherry trees. Dad cut it into lengths and I have it saved behind the shed. He suggested a table saw for cutting boards. How the hell do you process a tree into boards? This link says I need green wood so that ship has sailed. It was incredibly hard wood and very difficult to cut because it was already dry. I saw a Huel Howser episode where this guy turns scrap logs and stumps into bowls with a lathe. The bowls are super thin and delicate and often they break because of some imperfection that is only discovered near completion. Some of the holes or imperfections are accentuated for some seriously beautiful pieces. I guess what I am getting at is--any suggestions on what dried cherry logs are good for? It just feels like a missed opportunity to put them on the street for garbage collection. I have a strong desire to get into woodworking and have attempted some small projects around here lately.
They range from 3'3" to roughly 4' long. We definitely tested the 450lb capacity on my garden cart. Spoiler
The way I see it, there are 5 options... either cart them off to a mill to get sliced up, have someone with a portable mill do it on site for you, try milling it yourself with an Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, get someone with an Alaskan mill to come out and do it for you, or just sell the logs and buy pre-milled lumber with the cash. There is nothing wrong with having well-dried logs to mill up... the biggest fear is usually that they will crack as they dry out quickly through the ends, which is why you usually see logs and boards with their ends painted.