Depends on how you joined the to end table top pieces. The middle section will expand pushing the end caps.
This article gives a good intro: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/do-they-know-about-shrinkage/ Those breadboard ends look like they are secured with pocket screws across the entire length of the board, instead of secured only in the center and allowed to float elsewhere along the length.
Found all this for 915can, plus a 16 hour drive. Nova1624-44, the tools on the right are Scorby, some of the ones of the left are Henry Taylor , Crown, Hamlet and some that say Sheffield England with no names that I can see. There is a scroll chuck, face plate, Nova’s good sharpening jig(think it is there sharpening centre?). And I don't have my shop even built yet as you can tell, so it will just have to sit there.
Interesting turn of events today... My mom hired a contractor last September to redo her downstairs bathroom, laundry room, and family room... and part of that job was a big "wall of bookcases" for the family room. The guy has been very late with the delivery, and the first two times he delivered the bookcases and cabinets, the shelving wasn't level and the widths were off so that it wouldn't fit where it was supposed to go beside the fireplace. Today he delivered what was supposed to be the final piece after it was redone, and it was crap. You could tell that some guy who didn't know what he was doing was just doing something to get it out of his shop. I kind of lost it on the guy... he tried to tell me that it wasn't his work, it was a sub of his... and I basically lost my shit. "You took delivery of this piece of crap and are now trying to make my mom feel like it's a good job when it's absolute shit". He got offended, but then I started pointing out all the shit wrong with it... he used dados on a bookcase that wasn't box and frame construction, he used screws and plugs that looked like shit, some of the shelves weren't level (a bookcase that had un-level shelves!), some of them weren't flat (the glue line had broken), there was a ton of glue spill over that fucked up the stain job, some of the dados were inset and fucked up on the end with big tearouts and gaps... the list went on and on. He said "I take pride in my work!" (he's very Central American and "proud"), and I told him "then why the fuck is this piece of shit here and you're trying to install it?" He got pissed, and so I took him out to my partially built-out shop and showed him in ten minutes how the fucking simple bookcase should have been constructed (let's hear it for the Festool Domino!), and he was amazed, and then asked if I'd be interested in doing woodworking for him moving forward. That kind of took me by surprise, but he's offered me about $1500 per custom bookcase, which shouldn't take more than 8 hours shop time to build and stain. He's going to call me next week with 3 units he needs built, and he's supplying the materials. It seems that I might have fallen into a bit of a part time cash gig... Honestly, if I could land the work, I'd love to get into "professional" woodworking.
He's a nice enough guy, he just does the contracting thing part time... he's a commercial electrician and works lots at a few local factories, so doesn't have much "free time" to do his contracting stuff. He's a great guy to build a fence or a deck or to build out a bathroom, but "fine" woodworking is just not in his wheelhouse and he subs that stuff out... just doesn't know any better.
The shop remodel is going well... started off as an empty room with a few empty shelves at the end, but I've made a few changes. Built a big movable assembly table, a saw/planer stand, hard-plumbed a bunch of dust extraction pipe that goes to the dust extractor and the compressor in the garage next door (all automated with the iVac Pro automated sensors and blast gates), and a whack of cabinets as part of the built-in mitre saw stand. All done on the cheap with the absolute cheapest materials from Home Depot. Currently working on cabinet doors and some drawers for the lower cabs... stiles and rails and raised panels with some cheap construction grade pine. Also have some under cabinet LED lighting to go in once the doors are in place. It's really nice that it's a fully insulated, well-heated space... there's a huge infra-red tube heater on the ceiling that really pumps out the BTU's. Not much walking around room but because everything's wheeled you can move the main table to make room where you're currently working.
Yep. It's an addition onto the back if the garage that has a wall of big windows and a glass double door. It's a great space. Would be perfect if it were another 200 square feet so there would be room for a proper cabinet saw capable of handling a 4x8.
I found this nosing around on theChive. I don't know shit about this stuff but I thought it was cool none the less.
That's the most famous toolbox in the world, and hangs in the Smithsonian. http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/09/01/the-h-o-studley-tool-chest
Back in the day when you were a woodworking apprentice, you made your own tools and tool chests as part of your training. After you finished your training, most cabinet makers took great pride in their tool chests, as it was an indication of their skill and abilities. That's why you occasionally find such ornate, beautifully crafted tool chests around at auctions or estate sales. Studley (the maker of the above-pictured chest) used to work at a piano maker, so had access to some incredibly fine scrap wood, and would work on that chest in his spare time. He retired at 80 or so, which meant there was a lot of spare time to really focus his talent into the chest. Shitty video follows:
Just found the clip of a tool chest that I'm tempted to make. That being said, this guy has the best shop I've ever seen...
I am busy with more state cutouts and a cousin from South Dakota requested a cribbage board. This is about 8" wide by 14" long and 2" thick, made from two walnut boards glued up and finished with boiled linseed oil (which I'm starting to use a lot more now for decorative walnut pieces). There's 248 holes- drawing and drilling it out was a pain in the ass, some of those holes are obviously off but it's good enough. The holes are 17/64" so 1/4" brass pins will fit nicely.
Progress on the top of the cedar patio table. This is one side flattened with the router sled. Talk about a shitload of cedar mulch. But it does smell AMAZING. Next step is to flip it, do the other side, then square the thing up. I wet the top a bit to get an idea of what the grain will look like. It's looking good! It's still very, very rough and hasn't been sanded at all, so there are a few very minor lines visible from the router bit but that stuff will totally disappear with the first round of sanding. Couple of surprise rot spots from bugs but any imperfections like that will be filled in with epoxy before the thing is finished.
Dumb question or two about the router sled that is hard to tell from the pictures. Are the side boards you are using for guides just clamped to the table top with a couple spacers on the side? And did you space the table top up or did it just happen to be the right height?
Side pieces (rails) are jointed to be perfectly flat. Spacer blocks keep the rails away from the table top so the bit doesn't rip into them. The rails themselves are clamped side to side under the top just enough to hold everything in place, then adjusted with a dead blow hammer to get the exact height desired. Once achieved the clamps are tightened to hold them in place. In this case there are spacer blocks between the table top and the stands they are on to rise it up enough to reach the router easier.