Those are cool. The Diablo 6.0 is nice but finickey. The Carrera GT is crazy precise like a scalpel but scary to drive. I've only pushed the CGT 7/10th's.
Where do you even get a chance to push it that hard? I remember when they first came out, some banker douche brought it in at 5000km for a new clutch. He had been driving up and down the ramps at a local bank tower, and merked the clutch that way. I saw some old guy with a suit, leathery skin, long grey hair and tacky shades driving one a couple years later, had to be the same guy.
The clutch in a CGT is about 3" across, and if you combine that with a practically non-existant flywheel, and you have a car that is a bitch to master. And most people don't have the skill to drive it even at 50% of it's capabilities. I've been lucky enough to be out on the track with a few of them (Thunder Hill, Seattle, Mission), and they are awesome, especially under full throttle. I've also been unfortunate enough to lose a friend (Bill Keaton) in a crash at Fontanna in 2005(?). It was at a Ferarri track day, and shit went wrong, and 2 guys died. That crash changed a LOT with the CGT, from a legal perspective, as well as the insurance landscape for track days. That being said, I'd still rather have a RUF RT-12. Not as flashy/showy, but out-performs the CGT, and is a reasonable daily-driver.
I've got a 2003 Honda Civic with a 5-speed manual transmission, and when shifting at lower speeds, when starting to move, shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, there is a fairly noticeable chatter. It just started today. Is this something fairly serious, like needing to replace the clutch, or is it something smaller like topping up the tranny fluid? There's 137,000 km on the vehicle, with a big chunk of that being highway. Though I learned to drive standard on it, and I'm sure my mom rode the clutch a bit before I bought it off her. I'm doing an oil change on it tomorrow anyways, so if there's anything I should look for, it would me much appreciated. I was planning on checking the manual transmission fluid level just to start off (stick a finger in, make sure there's fluid up to the hole, right?)
I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek (piece of shit) last week the rear hatch release stopped working, I can't even open the trunk with the key. I've checked the fuses but they're all good. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?
If the chatter is RPM sensitive, check your heat shield. A lot of heat shields get loose and rattle at the resonating RPM.
This isn't the problem. Maybe chatter was the wrong term to use. When shifting, it's not just a noise, but a shaking. It's similar to what happens a lot when you're learning to drive standard. You don't give enough gas, slowly let go of the clutch, the car starts to shake, and then it stalls. However this is happening when I'm nowhere close to stalling and it happens between other gears too, not just starting from a stand still. It's still under warranty from Honda so I should be able to get it looked at for free at least by them, I just figured I'd ask on here in case it was something simple. Though looking through Honda forums, it sounds like it's more something internal and I just don't have the space to start taking stuff apart on it in my garage.
So I noticed that when I start up my Truck the default is having the car in Overdrive, to get out it must be manually turned off. However I had always been told that OD is typically bad for the car/uses more gas. Is this true?
The way I've always understood it (and wikipedia agrees) is overdrive effectively allows for lower gear ratios when cruising at 70+km/h thus saving you gas money. It was created back when autotrannys had less gears, and is still applied in the same way. Keeping it on is a good thing is the gist im getting
Quick question. I have an '08 Tacoma, and I have been having problems with the 12V plug fuses going. The normal load on them is my satellite radio and an ipod charger/radio transmitter The fuse is a 15 amp fuse, and as far as I can tell, doing the math in my head, there should be no way I am blowing that fuse with what I run on it. (I have run a inverter on it to charge batteries and laptops before) The fuse is not blowing while the engine is on and I am driving, it blows at some point when I turn it off or turn it on again. Any ideas?
Are you sure it's misfiring? Whenever you fuck with forced induction, like turbos or superchargers, you run the risk of something called "detonation". Well, more specifically, "pre-detonation". This is basically a case where you have too much compression in the cylinders due to increased volumes of air (from turbo/super charger), and/or a low amount of fuel, and/or are using a fuel with too low of an octane, and the fuel ignites prematurely due to the heat created by the increased compression. The misfiring you hear may well be this detonation, and it can SERIOUSLY fuck up your engine. It could also be the internal engine management detecting this detonation and killing the ignition on those cylinders in an attempt to save it. Ensure that you're running the proper air/fuel mixture (usually enriched with high compression), and run the highest octane you can find. (Octane actually inhibits the ignition due to compression, so the higher the octane, the higher the compression it can handle). When an after-market kit is installed, it is sometimes required to increase the amount of fuel delivery with larger jets/injectors/rails/pump/etc. It's also required to adjust the air/fuel mixtures. I've NEVER seen an aftermarket kit where you didn't have new maps installed. The fact that it's way colder out lately can also cause problems, as the colder air is denser, increasing the compression, and increasing the potential for detonation. This means that if you were running on the edge of detonation before, the colder weather might be enough to push it over that edge. How much boost is he running? Usually superchargers only run about 6-9psi (about .5 bar). If possible, try turning down the boost and see if it still happens. Whatever you do, get it handled, like, NOW. The longer you drive with it detonating, the better the chance is that it'll be scrap. On my last turbo street car, I blew the engine up when the Andial fuel enrichment system shit the bed... cost me $40k to rebuild. FYI, on our 850 hp Porsche twin-turbo race car, we're running 1.8 bar, but we're also highly modified to handle that; 114 octane (leaded) gas, and twin-plugged (twice the spark plugs, as gas has a hard time igniting properly under compression). That also brings up something else... when you increase the compression in the cylinder, the fluid dynamics, especially under more pressure, are usually changed significantly. This has a negative effect on the effective ignition of the air/fuel mixture, which is why a lot high-turbo engines are twin-plugged, so you have twice the spark to ensure that not only does it ignite, but it ignites more evenly. That's just a really brief outline, but if you want to learn more, go grab Corky Bell's book, Maximum Boost. PHENOMINAL READ. Also applies to supercharging, which is usually tame compared to turbocharging. Also, I'm in town for the next little while, feel free to give me a shout and I can take a look at it if you like.
All that turning it off does is keep the transmission from shifting into its highest gear. In city driving, you're never going to be going fast enough to hit that gear, so it's irrelevant. When towing something, especially in hilly/mountainous areas, you'll want to turn it off. Mostly you want to do this to prevent the transmission from shifting between the two top gears too much. Excessive shifting will lead to transmission temperatures being too high, and premature wear on the clutch pack. The downside is that turning O/D off on the highway means you're in a lower gear, so your engine RPMs will be higher and you use more fuel.
What he said. Also, don't confuse the "OD" with "tow" settings. On some trucks (like my Ram 3500 turbo diesel), the "tow" switch actually changes shift points (and other stuff) to make the overall performance more torqueier to help with the towing. I also have jake brakes on the truck, which is pretty cool, as I can tow my 18k lbs trailer with cruise control, even going down hills.
Hey I'm the actual owner of the mustang. I've had it on the dyno and its running too rich if anything, which is good for the winter time they said. Also I know it's misfiring because the check engine light comes on and when I run the codes in my predator tuner it says Random Misfire in Cylinder (X). It's only happened twice, once at high rpm and once just cruising at 120km/h at 2300 rpm or so. I'm running 94 octane (on a 91 octane tune) so I'm pretty certain it's not detonating.. Thanks a lot for your help by the way.
I've dealt with tons of tuning issues mainly on turbocharges cars but everything Net has said is spot on. Can you give us a bit of a breakdown on the component combination and settings you're using on the car? Injector size, engine management software, boost settings etc? I take it you've checked all the plugs and made sure they're nice an clean? When you're running a performance car especially one with forced induction it's amazing how quickly plugs can go bad when you're running rich, and how much a single dirty plug can fuck up the way the engine runs. I definitely wouldn't be mashing the pedal while you're having these issues and if you aren't running an aftermarket EFI/DFI system I'd look into it. Even the cheaper versions from AEM or Baumann are better than going with a generic burn chip for your stock EM.
Fawkes has good advice... check the plugs. Also check the wires and other connections. It could very well be the installation process knocked something for a loop... bad electrical connection somewhere, bad or dirty sensor, etc. Check all the stuff you would normally, as if it wasn't packing an aftermarket supercharger. Also check the fuel supply; filter(s), injectors, etc. Maybe run some injector cleaner through it. That's about all I've got.
procharger p1sc - 10psi pulley air to air intercooled stage 2 kit 48 lbs injectors diablo sport HO tune that comes with the procharger kit stock plugs I've check fuel pressure and spark voltage with the live data logging function on the predator and they both climb through the RPMs with no significant drop. I recently put mobile 1 synthetic oil in it and it hasn't misfired since, I don't see how that could solve the problem however. I was thinking that perhaps since its running so fat that I'm fowling plugs slightly which is causing a misfire. The misfire has only happened twice, once at red line, once just cruising at ~2500 RPM. Thanks a lot to all who have tried to help, I appreciate it.
Is he running any kind of aftermarket fuel management? I don't know a lot about Mustangs but with the four cylinder Japanese cars that run high boost, most of them have an aftermarket engine computer and have been fine tuned on a dyno for safe, consistent power levels.