Depends on how much work you want to do. For the locks just take the solenoid off, and either clip the wires at the spot where they go through the door. For the windows, the aftermarkets doesn't make a manual window regulator, so you are going to have to go to the junk yard or the stealership. And you are going to have to modify the interior panel for the little shaft that will stick through. And same with the locks, you can just clip the wires off at the spot where they go through. If you really want it to look nice, go buy a pack of the smallest zip ties. Start from the door side, cut a couple of the oem ones, take your wires out that you want, re zip tie the harness, and move down the harness. This way, if you only do a couple at a time, it will help keep the wires neat.
I'm trying to figure out if the interior panels are the same from 1996-98(?) as 2000 so that I can use panels from a Jeep with roll downs that's being parted out. I might just buy all 4 doors so I'll have them. Plenty of access to cable ties so that part is covered and helpful. Thanks!
Unfortunately, that car is a little old, so they don't do many body parts for it. What i can tell you thou is that 97-01 is the same car in terms of exterior parts. So there is a good chance that your interior parts will fit.
'97 was an interior redesign for cherokees and wranglers. I'd say it's not possible without a lot of work though. Your best bet would be to buy doors off a donor vehicle that had manual windows. If you're just stripping it out, I'd imagine doors from the pre '97 interior update would work fine. If your doors are in decent shape I'm sure you could sell them for equal price. EDIT: Looks like you have it covered already, I should have read on.
Thanks for the suggestions about the headlights. I wiggled some wires, and while nothing appeared loose, it hasn't happened since. So I'll assume that you guys fixed it. I stumbled upon an '08 GMC Sierra Denali for a smokin price, and I'm toying with the idea of going for it. I really like how those trucks look with a slight drop or leveling kit, but I'm curious to know how that would affect towing. I don't tow often, but I might start pulling a trailer of Hawaiian Outrigger Canoes, about 40ft long, <5k pounds. Would a 2-3" drop make that a problem? Anything I'd need to look out for? This is the kit I was looking at: Link Also, does anyone have any advice for that specific truck? Any high-failure parts or things to watch out for?
Lowering for that weight will not doing anything. You just need to make sure you trailer is level, generally the top of the ball needs to be about 18".
A week ago, I decided that my '03 BMW 540 6-speed was going to bankrupt me with repairs, so I ditched it in favor of a lease on a new Honda Accord coupe, V6 manual: Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler This is a monster sports car hiding behind the boring Accord name. 271 HP that growls all the way to redline, great handling, gearbox is far better than the Bimmer's, and I'm paying $70/month less for only the next three years. Life is good.
Yea, they are getting some pretty monster HP numbers out of V6's now a days. Toyota has 268 out of a 3.5L, Ford has 305 out of a 3.7L, Chev has 323 out of a 3.6L.
Today I was out ice fishing, just sitting in my truck and watching tip up lines. Truck stopped blowing heat and then started to overheat. This is what my coolant looks like. Spoilered for size. Spoiler One of two things is happening here. Either someone mixed green and orange anti-freeze before I bought it or I have a coolant leak somewhere, most likely an intake gasket since GM 5.7 Vortec [used 1996-2001 in some vehicles] are notorious for intake gaskets. Air gets into the system and oxidizes iron parts and creates massive amounts of rust that get mixed into the coolant. My truck is a '97 Chevy. The intake gasket was done about 30k miles ago but I am guessing it is the problem again. Tomorrow it goes in to have a machine flush the coolant system and I will keep an eye on it from now on.
That looks suspiciously like an oil/coolant milkshake. Make sure your oil doesn't look the same way; if it does, you've probably got a blown head gasket. Depending on how long it's been going you might also have some wrecked bearings.
I had the same thoughts. And it does smell like oil. I was told though that dexcool antifreeze will smell like oil. The head gaskets were done on this motor at the same time as the intake. The oil looks fine though. When it gets flushed tomorrow I am going to have them look it over better. I guess I am leaning more and more towards a coolant leak somewhere, though.
The internal oil cooler had a hole in it, leaking oil into the rest of the radiator. This is the first time I've had a shop do work for me but I just don't feel like laying in the snow and cold to do this job, plus I'll be under it eventually to put a new starter in it. Then I'm selling this heap.
Whoever designed the retainer clips for the low-beam headlight bulbs in the Mazda 3 needs to be gang raped in prison and set on fire. It took me 45 minutes to change the bulbs on my girlfriend's car last night. My finger tips are so mashed in that it feels like I played a rusty guitar for about a day straight. The clips, once released, are larger than the opening they swing through, so when you go to push them back around and secure them, they get stuck on the plastic housing. The only way to get the clip fastened on the little metal ear it goes behind is to essentially rape your hand. This process leads to, what I'd like to call, angry lobster claw installation--where you jam your hand into a tiny crevice and then fumble around like a mad man with the only fingers that managed to poke through as the clip tricks you into thinking that it's in place, only to slip out seconds later. Honestly, if given the choice, I'd rather try to find the g-spot on an angry, meth-filled gorilla than do that bulb replacement again.
So, I've been pretty good for the first 31 years of my life, I think I deserve one of these. I mean, I haven't killed anyone or anything this whole time!
So my '07 Impala hit a screw. The tire lost about half the air in the last 36 hours and I've found the screw. It's in the tire pretty deep (as in up to the screw head and pretty much flush with the tire). I was advised to fill it with fix-a-flat and then if necessary fill the rest with air. Having never had this problem before, does that sound right? Sorry for the non-knowledge about the subject. Thanks.
Don't use fix-a-flat unless you're stranded on a interstate bridge somewhere and your life is in danger. Pull the screw out and plug the hole. You can either use the D-I-Y plugs from an auto parts store or you can take it to a tire store and have them patch it from the inside. Patching it costs a few more bucks because they have to remove the tire from the wheel, but if your tires still have a lot of tread on them it's probably worth it. Check the tire more often after the repair to be sure that it's holding air.
Yeah don't use fix-a-flat unless it's an emergency. Get it plugged. Where is the screw? If it's too close to the sidewall a lot of shops won't plug it.
This same thing happened to me a few years ago. If you can, get to an autozone or something and buy a tire plug kit for like $10. Then drive to a gas station with an air pump. Pull out the screw with some pliers and use the plug kit to seal up the hole then pump up the tire with some air. Take it to a tire shop some time in the near future and get a permanent plug. I know a lot of shops that won't fix a tire if you used that fix a flat spray, its disgusting, spreads all over the inside of your tire, and is a pita to scrape out. Seems like a long process but its cheaper and easier than buying a new tire.
I'm looking into my options for a cold air intake on my 2008 5.4L Ford F150. In my research, I've noticed there are lots of conflicting opinions about K&N, or "wet" type filters. A couple of my friends wouldn't dare use this type of filter, as they've heard that the engine can actually suck oil from the filter, in turn attracting dirt and dust. Some people swear by their K&Ns. Does anybody have any experience/input on wet vs dry?