Wanted to reach out to the TiB automotive experts to see if the latest upsell Midas laid on me seems legit. The backstory, I have an 2002 Pathfinder LE, about 135k miles, 100k of them mine, no major issues. I keep the oil changed regularly, tires swapped out a few times, brakes done, no major issues. About a year ago I had the transmission fluid changed. Last time I was in for an oil change the kid who ran me through what they did tried to sell me on two of their services, a power steering flush and a fuel system cleaning. Do either of this sound legit? I'm not well versed on car repairs, but I get that fluids need to be swapped out over time, so the power steering one sounds reasonable, but the fuel system one seemed a little sketchy. Am I off base on this?
Just about any quick lube will try to sell you additional services. I wouldn't mess with a fuel system flush unless you had some type of problem with the way the engine ran. Power steering fluid isn't something you can really check as it turns very dark very quick, even when new. Not knowing if it's ever been changed it couldn't hurt to do it but it's not a big deal.
Good advice. I swap PS fluid every 50K miles, just to be safe. It's cheap and easy. A fuel system flush is probably a can of injector cleaner. I swap fuel filters every 75K miles, and if they are doing this, that might make sense. Otherwise, it is BS.
Took some pictures by the beach with my new front bumper. It's from the 2011 IPL G37 (Infiniti Perfomance Line) and its about a 98% fit, only a couple hard to notice if you're not looking for them flaws. It took about 3 hours to remove my old front, swap the grille, and throw this guy on. I think it makes the car look 10x more aggressive. Next up is a new set of side skirts again from the IPL, to get the body just where I want it.
Correction, it's the 2010 anniversary bumper, not the '11 IPL. Pretty hard to find and expensive to replace. I have a buddy who had an extra as he swapped his for the IPL. He painted it and shipped it via greyhound.
http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video...apan-pile-up/17zv16x6y?from=imbot_en-ca_m2534 I will admit i cried when i watched this
I got Jasmine tuned today, here are the results: 1st pull: 286.6hp, 242.2 ft/lbs tq. 8th pull: 302.5hp, 246.0 ft/lbs tq. 12th pull: 306.9hp, 250.2 ft/lbs tq. 12 pulls, 20hp, 8 ft/lbs, and a much richer mixture (I was running about 14a/f ratio, that got knocked down to about 13.1) on a dynojet dyno, 50-ish degrees outside, not sure the humidity. The numbers surprised me as nissan engines are known to be very efficient stock. Well worth the money. And I'll post pictures and video's later.
I've seafoamed my oil and the intake systems. You can go here to see instructions: http://www.seafoamsales.com/ What good did it do? I have no idea, personally. I've always heard it does a good job cleaning your engine though. The smoke is crazy when you put it into your intake so make sure you don't have neighbors you might piss off.
Everyone has always said it works, what ever it does. The salesmen that came into our store absolutely pissed off my manager, cant remember how, so my manager basically told him to fuck off, and we haven't every carried it. Dont know if it is from marketing or what, but everyone always comes in asking for it.
So my headlights occasionally won't turn on. High beams always work, but sometimes my low beams won't work at all. Then when I get in the truck after work, it's fine. Could it be a fuse? Or maybe the relay? Where is the relay? (2000 Chev s10) Thanks!
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread If they turn on after work its not the fuse, they would be inop at all times if the fuse was open. The relay is in the underhood fuseblock. Does this have a dash mounted switch for the headlamps or are they turned on using the switch on the column? If its a column mounted switch I would be leaning towards the multi-function switch having a fault.
I'd be tempted to spray some contact cleaner into the guts of the switch or knobby-twisty-thingy that controls the lights and see if that helps.
As other have said a fuse with either work or will not work. Relays are generally the same, they either work or are burnt up. With the low beams, do they both work together, and both not work together, or is it just one at a time? I am assuming they both go out together. Do one or both of them go really dim? I would start with what everyone else has said and start with contact cleaner. If they are going dim, you are having some sort of power issue, you aren't getting enough power to turn on the light fully. It is usually burnt/corroded wires.
2008 Ford F150 XLT Supercab (extended cab, not 4-door) 4X4 I've noticed my driver door is sagging just a bit. All the lines line up OK, there are no air or water leaks, and it opens and closes OK. However, the truck has a two-tone paint scheme, and the paint lines don't line up-they're about 1/8" off. The passenger side lines up perfectly. I assume this is due to the previous owner using the damn door as a handrail to hoist himself up into the truck, causing it to droop like it's doing. I've attempted loosening the nuts inside the door and lifting it up, but when I tighten them back, they seem to push the door right back down. I haven't tried a floor jack and a block of wood yet, but it's getting to that point (unless, of course, someone here knows a better way). I don't think the door needs bushings, as it only has 57k miles, and I don't think it's that worn. I know this is a nitpick issue, but I want to get it fixed before it gets worse and starts leaking/making noise/etc. Any advice? Thanks in advance!
That's most likely what happened though, the door pins or if there is some type of bushing in there then they could be bad. It's usually more common in high mile vehicles though.
That seems like a really weird problem. If all the door gaps are fine, the door is straight and where it should be, so there it no reason for your paint line not to line up. It might have a lightly bent hinge or bad bushing, but not enough to show on the door gaps. Maybe it had to be repainted at some point and just had a shitty job.
So I have a 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i wagon, and last week the lock button on the remote stopped working. Ordered a new one online, and I'm trying to program the remote. According to Subaru, the process involves doing this: 1. Sit in the vehicle and close the door. Ensure that all doors and rear gate or trunk lid are closed. 2. Open then close the driver's door 3. Open then close the driver's door within 45 seconds 4. Cycle the ignition switch from LOCK to ON 10 times within 15 seconds. Once done properly you will hear an audible tone accompanied by a buzzing noise... and so on. Problem is, I can't get this to work for me. I've followed these instructions several times and am getting nothing as far as entering the programming mode. I'd like to avoid taking it to a dealer to get stuck paying them to do what should be a five minute job. Has anyone else had a similar problem programming (or trying to) the remotes, or have any tips that might make this work for me?
Any tips of removing all power locks and windows from a vehicle? I'm looking to convert a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport back to basics. This is going to be a completely stripped down activities vehicle. No carpet, headliner, NO power locks and windows. Roll downs all over! Looking to keep all wiring clean and neat.