The Automotive Thread

Did he do a smoke test on the evap system, or just guess it was the canister from the code? Could be the close valve (purge valve), so make sure that was changed, too.

 

Yep, like Rush said, look at the entire vacuum system not just the canister. I had a 1997 Lexus ES300 that threw the same code as your RAV4. I took it to the Lexus dealer and they quoted an exorbitant price for replacing the evap canister, which I was not willing to put into the vehicle. I went home and did some research and then looked under the hood. I found the vacuum hose that had been either been left off or not installed securely when I had the valve cover gasket replaced a month or two before. I plugged it back in and had the code cleared and never had the issue again. The original canister was still in the car when it was totaled at 282k miles. They went straight for the most expensive fix instead of actually diagnosing the problem.

 

Code P0456 is many times the purge solenoid. Also could be a bad gas cap.

The purge solenoid is usually under the hood; you can test it by disconnecting it on the fuel tank side of the line (NOT the engine side) with the engine running, unplugging it, and putting your finger over the exposed vacuum port.

If you feel any suction at all, it's bad.
I check that EVERY time I get a car with an EVAP leak code.

 

The local mechanic did a smoke test - as a result at one point they also thought there was a leak at the gas tank. They didn’t charge me to check any of that given the continuing issues, but that went nowhere.

I just stopped down there and told them about Toyotas recommendation. The mechanic is going to charge me for parts but none of the labor, since they didn’t address the original problem. So about $400 vs Toyota’s $2,100 quote.

I’ll bring up the valve issue as well.

 

Posting not to start a "Ram's are garbage" flame war, but rather, the importance of knowing your payload weights, distribution, and vehicle configuration.

Ram 3500 frame snapped

 

It's certainly not the first truck of any brand that snapped like that.

It wouldn't surprise me if the camper's empty weight was higher than advertised. I was told by a service department that can a problem on some travel trailers, they can be several hundred pounds heavier than published dry weight. I'd find a way to take it to a truck stop scale and verify the weights before I made any other moves.

If any of you buy one, weigh it yourself to verify. I did with mine. When we really loaded up to go live in the campground where I worked, we were a little over GVWR for my '88 Chevy k2500. We were already over halfway through the trip by the time I found out, though.

 

That is the biggest drop in I've ever seen. I'm guessing the amount of overhang weight off the backend certainly didn't help.

It shocks me how little people understand their vehicle's weight & balance limitations, or assume the cargo capacity only applies to what's in the truck bed.

How many see crew cabs loaded near to or exceeding the vehicle's weight limit with just what's in the cab?

 

If that snapped a one ton dually frame, what truck is it made for then?

 

Some pickups can't haul a load of plywood with a family in the cab at the same time, and still be under payload maximums.

 

Really. The length behind the tailgate is enough to accommodate a side door. Why not just tow something vs the drop-in, if you're getting one that big?

 

Agree, at that size if you dont want to tow, why not start with a chassis cab and have something bolted to or integrated to the frame?

 

Damn, I just looked closely. That's an actual fucking motorcycle on the rack in the back. That didn't help, that's a lot of leverage twisting that frame. A lot of weight far away from the pivot point, the rear axle.

 

Yea, the gas in the tank also counts against max payload weight. A half ton crew cab with four or five adult males in the cab might be near the max weight before anything is in the bed.

 

Seeing that motorcycle, I'm with the dealership. That thing is dangerously overloaded. If that bike only weighs 250 pounds and it's 8 feet from the rear axle, that's 2,000 foot pounds of torque twisting that frame down in the back. That's just the bike, not the drop-in.

 

That was my first thought.

 

Damn, batteries are friggin expensive now. Almost $200 for a size 51r, which isn't much bigger than a lawnmower battery.

 

Our 4d's are almost hitting 500 a pop and that is cheap.

 

Used to have four of those in my freightliner. Think I paid about $700 for four in 2008, last time I've bought 4d.

 

I hate it when i call up the dealer for a specific part and there is back and forth, trying to get the right information so they can order me the right part. So when i get the quote, i google the part number to see a picture of it, i call them back saying "hey google search showed me a picture that it looked like this enstead of that, i need number 3 not number 4 in the diagram" "no the part number i gave you is number 3, google must be wrong" "ok".

Guess what? The part i got was number 4 and not number 3.