Advance Auto will do that here, to check battery or alternator. I'm not sure about voltage regulator. I was thinking it was more of a yes/no test for the battery. But, I'll give that a try.
Automatic start/ stop cars have a second, smaller battery just for that stupid feature. Test them individually.
This. My bet is the smaller Aux battery is shit, I had to replace a 3 year old one in my wife’s Pacifica for the same error. Factory batteries aren’t the greatest, made to get the vehicle just long enough that it’s not on the manufacturer to replace it for free. That’s it. Personally I like AGM Interstate batteries, Optima makes a good battery too but they are pretty proud in the pricing department. The Aux battery however will look more like a small tractor battery or similar.
This is what I thought, too. I looked through the owner's manual first and couldn't find anything. That's one reason I posted here. But, even though the Grand Cherokee has a second battery for this, the regular Cherokee does not. There was from a forum on CarGurus with this discussion and arguments about the second battery being under the seat, or under the main battery. The only thing I have found a consensus on, is that there seems to be no consensus, lol. The Jeep Compass, which is similar to the regular Cherokee does have a second battery. So, I need to keep looking. Will report back.
Wait, you have 45k miles on a 2021 vehicle? Don't you also have a GM truck with like 400k miles? Outside sales rep?
I had a Chevy Silverado with 450k miles, but alas, I sold it last year. I am not an outside sales rep. But, I commute 15 miles each way to and from work, and I drive to work sites all over Georgia and Alabama.
@Rush-O-Matic The regular Cherokee's only have one battery in the car. There is not a second for the stop/start function. Your battery is probably just going dead, but there might be something that's draining the battery you aren't aware of, which might be your issue, but good luck tracking that down. Jeep's aren't notorious for electrical gremlins, but it wouldn't be the first time I've heard of one having something "weird" going on with the electrical system. It also just might be they put a shit battery in from the factory which doesn't last as long as an older car factory battery. You could also try upgrading your alternator, I know when I've worked on cars in the past where I added in a bunch of stereo equipment which draws a lot of power from the battery, it was suggested to upgrade the alternator to compensate. Not sure if you are using some of the AC plugs in the car on a regular basis or not? '
Thanks, all. I haven't had a chance to get the battery tested yet, but will do that. I did confirm what PC said, that there is only one battery. And, it has one of these battery sensors on it. Apparently, sometimes the battery is fine, and the sensor can go bad. One post suggested that regular disabling the auto s/s (which is what I was doing) can give a false memory to the sensor. So, the battery is fully charged, but the sensor may think otherwise. I'm not sure about that or how the sensor works. But, if that's it, it's a $50 part instead of a $200 battery.
From what I understand, that sensor ensures there is enough juice to restart the car. If the battery is going bad or borderline, this sensor tells the car to not auto shut off. I'd just replace it but that's just because I don't know how to test it. I'm sure Dixie or someone here will know how.
Civil PEs rack up a ton of miles on a truck. Jobs all over the damn place, meetings with clients, pre-con meetings, multiple site visits throughout a project timeline, zoning boards, town or city councils, meetings with planning. Especially if you're a small outfit with no cronies to do plan submittals, or proof rolls and that bullshit. it's gotten better since, locally, you can submit pdf scans, receive redlines in pdf via email. You don't have to send someone to every municipality sometimes multiple times a week anymore or wait on the mail. You wouldn't believe how many 4l60e transmissions we went through!
I'd clean all of the connections to that sensor first, clean your battery terminals, wait at least ten minutes, then try it again the next day. Oh, and TEST YOUR FUCKING BATTERY. I'd do all that a few times a week before I'd ever gamble $50 on some part from MOPAR/ FCA/ Chrysler. I've been telling people for over twenty years that MOPAR is shit, but nobody seems to listen. The only reason you should ever buy a MOPAR vehicle is because: 1) You want a Cummins diesel. 2) You want a Hemi that will eventually fail. Prove me wrong, people; prove me wrong. I've got a whole laundry list of complaints about Ford/ GM/ Honda/ Toyota/ Freightliner/ Kenworth/ Peterbilt/ John Deere/ ______, but nobody disappoints like MOPAR. At least with shit brands like BMW, you know what to expect.
Don't worry we have 40+ Dodges/Rams for our mobile fleet. Yes they are a work truck but fuck me i hated them before i got here, i hate them even more now.
I don't really plan to clean, disconnect and wait a few times a week, and would definitely choose replacing the $50 part over making that a weekly habit. I had already checked and cleaned the connections. But, I did get the battery and alternator tested today, and both of them are good. I don't think anyone is "not listening" and I have talked about low-quality MOPAR before, and I think that's fairly well known. But, you forgot one reason why people will by a MOPAR vehicle is cost. My last Chevy truck I sold was my second consecutive one, and I loved them both. But, at the time I was in the market for a new vehicle, replacing it was $50,000 and the least expensive 4-wheel drive SUV was the Jeep Cherokee, which was $24,000. I factored in the cost of expected maintenance, replacement and durability. I actually did a good bit of comparative research, and the more reasonable financial decision for me was the Jeep Cherokee. I don't expect to get 450k miles out of it, but when knobs start falling off at 100k miles or I junk it and buy another one, I still spent less.
Look at the price now, they aren't cheaper then anyone else and people are still buying them. But i do agree on they were cheap, a truck was 10k from them for a long time.
Update, for historical purposes: I have a friend that does a lot of work on cars and had Jeep Cherokee a few years ago. He suggested trying something that I also saw suggested on one of the forums. Put a 1 Amp trickle charger on the battery overnight. So, I did that last night. And, now the S/S feature screen says "Ready" and it works normally again when I stop at traffic lights, etc. However . . . the battery indicator was reading 13.7 - 13.9 V all the time, for the past 2 weeks since I started noticing the problem. (The gauge displays from 10 - 18 and 14 is the exact middle.) Now the feature works fine, the Jeep starts just fine, but the indicator now reads 12.4 V. It's weird to me that it's reading a lower voltage, but now the "Battery Charging" message is gone and the feature works normally. I don't know anything about 12V negative ground systems, though.
Don't know if any of you guys care, but Ford just released the spec on the new Super Duty. They have a new option for a HO diesel. 500hp 1200lbs. Max ... 40,000lb towing capacity, 30,000lb conventional, 25,000lb conventional on srw. This can now tow just as much as any single axle medium duty truck.
Much like sports car, shit is getting out of control lol. Not sure about Canada, but down here, you need a commercial license for anything over 26,000lbs.