Haven't gotten my decals for my business. The body is really rough, this is by far the good side. But the guy i bought it from said he was a ford tech and went through it from front to back, rebuilt diff's, rebuilt tranny, studded/deleted engine. So i dont care what it looks like it is just a tow pig. I asked the guy if it had snow tires on it, he said yes so i thought it was all good. Well it does have snow tires on it but they are 325's, so they are huge flat surfaces with no traction. That was some of the worst winter driving i have ever done. I am lucky that there was no on coming traffic coming down the hill or i would of totaled the trailer. I went sides up a hill across three lanes.
I just got one of the craziest unsolicited offers on my old truck. This offer had me thinking for a minute. If it were a two stroke, I may have done it. Even trade, this... For this...
This isn't technically automotive, but it is engine related... This is a thing of beauty... Now come the questions I have for better mechanics than me. I'm calling you out @dixiebandit69 . You have two identical engines, both fuel and oil injected two strokes. One is seized tight as fuck, won't budge for anything. I figure that one, was either run without oil or it needs the oil injection system repaired also. If the registration dates are any indication, this one could have been sitting for six years. The other turns slow, but sounds like a coffee grinder. I think this one got a short in the ignition key, they stopped riding it and it sat on the lift for four years. It will need a new DESS key, possibly the post, too. It was probably just a little stuck, rings rusted to the cylinder wall, or something. Which one would you start with, your goal being having one running ASAP? I think I'll pull both heads today and see if either or both need re-sleeving. If both do, I guess it doesn't matter which one I start with. I only have one rebuilt crankshaft right now, got the last one off the shelf, I might have rebuild one of mine myself for the second rebuild.
I’d start with the one that moves. If they ran one until it seized, it could be welded/melted/fused together and you’re proper fucked.
That was kinda my thinking, too. I just hope when I did spin that engine over, it didn't gouge giant grooves into the cylinders, grooves too big to bore out.
Just remember my advice is worth exactly what you're paying for it... I'd be very interested to hear a pro's (@dixiebandit69) take.
I'm still interested, too. I've rebuilt a handful of engines, never started with one that was locked up though.
Maybe you just throw this shitty one together so it runs, but shittily, and work on a proper rebuild for next season? That would give you time to rip it apart and get all the pieces parts together.
In terms of speed, start with the one that spins over, pull the plugs and put some oil in the cylinders and let that soak a bit, then roll it over. Rinse and repeat. If they free up mix some gas and see if you can get it to fire. But if your pulling the heads anyway then it doesn’t really much matter.
Did your cat stomp that out on your keyboard? Lol, you're one of the last people I expected to say settle for shitty. I have all the parts to do a proper, full rebuild of all internal moving parts on one. I'd be happy with one for a season, they are three-seater skis. No need for anything to go back together in a shitty manner. That's one of the first things I did, put some oil in the cylinders. The one that did turn over, sounded horrible, but it did move. I didn't get to pull the heads today. Not enough time in a day.
Timeline’s matter. If you can spend an hour to get it running for the season at 60%, vs weeks of parts and work to do properly? Then I’d probably settle for doing both... short term settle for shitty, long term proper rebuild.
In my line of work we have a saying... “we don’t need it perfect, we need it Wednesday.” That can apply to a lot in life.
Oh, you were talking about getting the on that will turn over running without a rebuild? I wouldn't trust it, it literally sounded like something was grinding inside it. That's without sparkplugs in it, under no compression. I don't think it would start for anything. And, we do most of our lake trips during the week when nobody is here to tow us back if it fails. I think I can have one done in a few weeks, which is soon enough for me.
Just disassemble both of them, tell us what you find. You'll probably be taking the best parts out of both of them to build one engine. Don't worry, we mix and match parts for engines/ transmissions/ differentials all the time. But we need to know what we've got to work with, first. Good luck.
That's what I was thinking. Hopefully between the two shit motors, you can reassemble a complete motor. I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil freeing stuck engines. Bought a 350 sbc that some dude had in his yard under a sheet of plywood. Squirted some mystery oil through the spark plug holes, kept working it back and forth until I could rotate it 360*, primed the oil pump to suck all the shit outta the pan and it ran fine for years. Side note, been day drinking so YMMV
As long as it's well edited... When Puffman said one would turn, but it sounded like grinding coffee... There is no good way that engine will run again, UNLESS you take it apart, assess the damage, and go from there. Currently at work, I've got a '69 Plymouth Roadrunner with a 440 crate engine that someone must have fucked up on; it takes over 70 lb/ ft of torque to turn it over, thus it physically cannot turn fast enough to trigger the distributor and start. At this point, the problem is with the Pistons, because I've ruled everything else out. I'll talk more about this tomorrow, if y'all like.