My cousin bought a 10 y/o 5 Series with 100k on it. Three months later traded it in for a $5k loss. There is a reason why BMW's have the absolute worst deprecation of any car. As others have said, get a Honda/Toyota product and put nothing more in it than gas. Edit - Another advantage of non BMW/Benz/Audi/etc is parts prices. I have a 2012 BMW 528i in the shop. Minor accident chipped the edge of the headlight so it needs a new one. $1942. Also have a 2014 Ford Fusion in the shop. Headlight cost? $256.
The New Corvette C8 mid engine has been revealed. It actually looks less like the Audi R8 and NSX than I had anticipated. I actually kind of dig the viewable engine. I still don't see Chevy breaking the Boomer car stigma the Vette has with this.
I've never driven anything like that. Why does it have paddle shifters on the steering wheel if it's automatic?
So you can still dictate which gear the car is in. IE; if you're in a traditional automatic car in a long sweeping turn and you let off the gas the car might up shift, here you can hold it in whatever gear you want. Also, when you downshift, the car will rev-match the rpms. You still have traditional Drive for cruising around. You don't *have* to use the flappy paddles. I'm a die hard manual guy but modern auto's have become so advanced that if you want to compete on the world stage, you need to use them. I'm not sure there are any super cars that still use a manual trans. Maybe one or two?
Yep, what he said. Modern cars, like the Porsche, actually engage 2 gears simultaneously so that when you shift gears it’s instantaneous. You can easily gain 1-2 seconds a lap by using the paddles vs manual shifting. Plus you remove the chance of a money shift. Manual transmissions are about the fun of driving, not about performance. It used to be auto transmissions were slow and heavy and the second best. Not any more.
This is a decent write-up about the Porsche PDK dual-clutch transmission. https://autoweek.com/article/technology/what-pdk-autoweek-explains
I mean I get shaving fractions of milliseconds for racing. The best technology will win out. But day to day driving or enthusiast driving? Ive tried a couple of automatics that had the paddle shift as an option. Without the clutch it just felt limp. It didn't come close to the same feeling of control rowing a real manual does. Sucks the writing is on the wall for them though, besides traffic, it makes a driving an experience, not just a commute.
I don't know I just love the feeling of rowing so much more than flipping your finger. You know it's not the same.
Am I the only one disappointed that this latest Corvette doesn't have the 4-cam, 5.5 liter LT5 engine that I've been hearing about for the last few years (but have never actually seen proof of)? I've been hearing about this mystery engine since 2015, but every new model year, it's still essentially the same engine ("TA DA! We put a bigger blower on it!"). I hope GM at least wised up and added some intake port injectors to supplement the direct-injection system that their Gen-V engines have; if you've ever taken one apart that has a decent amount of miles on it, the backs of those intake valves looks nasty. I don't even really like Corvettes, but that is where GM always likes to debut their latest high performance technology, and I'm getting impatient.
Having been raised in a GM family and a graduate of GM Tech school, I say long live the pushrod V8. But I do agree with Dixie on the intake valves, holy shit some of them when I was at the dealer I have no clue how they sealed properly.
I agree completely. My car will never see the track, I just drive on the street and if a paddle auto can out perform me on a track, so be it. I don't care. I have a much more solid feeling of having control of the car with a manual. It's in the gear I want it to be in for what I intend to do, not the gear a computer decides I might want to be in. I know that modern automatics can shift faster and more intelligently then they used to, but I doubt they'll ever be able to match the rush of a 4-2 down shift at 50 mph to make a 90 degree turn and bleed off some speed before you make the turn in. That's why I drive a manual...because you can do stupid shit like that and have complete control of things. Sadly, I've got to agree with whoever said it....the writing is on the wall. Manual transmissions are going to go the way of dinosaurs. It's a pity because they are more fun then you should be allowed to have, but anymore they're not much more then an anti theft device. No one knows how to drive a manual any more.
It will be interesting to see. Too bad on the Cadillac V series used to use the LT2 engine but now they went with a 4.2L with 550hp instead of the 6.2L with 650hp, but maybe they did that because they are putting AWD on the V series and can't handle the power. But that is impressive 550hp out a 4.2L V8. I always wanted a CTS-V, 4dr sedan with 650hp, for a reasonable price. edit: aren't they calling the new high end Vet engine the LT5? 6.2L 755hp.
Wow, I thought owning my truck for 16 years was impressive . . . https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/vintage-car-nova-scotia-1.5204218 Man has owned the same truck for 70 years
This seems pretty cut and dried what the solution is, but I thought I'd run it past y'all.... My low coolant light came on, scared the shit out of me at first because I was 25 miles from home at night and the tiny idiot light looked like it might be a battery....I had fears my alternator went out, but the volt meter said that wasn't the case. Finally at a stop light I grabbed my reading glasses out of the jockey box and stuck my face up to the dash (Getting old really,really sucks) and saw that it was a low fluid light. Still not good given how hot the damn car runs. Once I got home I checked the overflow tank and it was full, I poured some coolant in just to be sure and it came pouring out the overflow hose, so the tank is full. I then checked the radiator and it was full, so I'm pretty sure the sensor went tits up. Checking prices for a new sensor has me a bit concerned....they range from about $10 to around $80 for a GM part. Which leaves me a bit perplexed...I only use quality parts on my car, but why such a price range for a lowly sensor? Any ideas? My original question though would be: Am I missing something or is a faulty sensor the obvious answer? And a for what it's worth story... I bought a new AC/Delco starter from Rock Auto a while back. It was the one they said fit the '96 Camaro LT1. Long story, short....it wasn't. Rock Auto has great prices, but have a part number in hand when you make a purchase. I bought the damn thing months ago and it would be a major pain in the ass to ship it back, so I now have a brand new AC/Delco starter for....something.
which is why a local store is nice. if something is wrong just bring it back. but that seems like a huge swing in price for a sensor. as long as it is a name brand it doesnt matter. sometimes when I was selling engine sensors, the OEM one would come in a aftermarket brand box.