The Automotive Thread

Pretty much what Nett said, I know when I was younger I did some really fucked up shit just to make my idea fit without fully thinking things out. I dropped a 351 in a '65 mustang and those damn shock tower braces that ran to the firewall were in the way, so I cut them out without considering that they were there because people much smarter then me figured out they needed to be there. I didn't care, my car went like hell. Chances are I tweaked the sub frame on that poor Mustang something awful with all the torque that 351 put down. I hope I'm a little bit smarter now.

In other news, I sort of solved my wheel decision in the most annoyingly, difficult way possible. Originally I HATED the stock wheels on my Z. I thought they were the stupidest things ever, but they slowly grew on me. I kind of like them now. And it turns out that Chevrolet had an option, that apparently no one wanted back then, of those wheels in chrome. I decided that, for the time being, it would be cool to outfit my car with a set of them.

Here is where it became annoying and difficult....you can't just buy a used set of the wheels. I had to hunt down and buy each wheel individually. I finally put together a high end set for around $500, which is a hell of a lot less then just laying out the $ for an aftermarket set of wheels and as a bonus my tires will fit them.

For the foreseeable future my Z will rock these:

 

I got the new wheels put on my Z a couple days ago. I've got to say that I'm impressed. I honestly don't know if I've ever seen a Camaro IRL with these wheels. (As hard as it was to put together a set of them, I'm guessing it was an option box that was rarely checked.) Anyways, they give it a very cool, unusual factory retro look that is subtly different then your run of the mill Z28 with alloy rims. Anymore, I like subtle instead of in your face mods. Speaking of which, it also subtly shows off my sexy new brakes better then the original alloys too.

I'll try to post pictures next weekend after she goes in to get the windows tinted. Hopefully, I can convince the tinters to do something quasi legal for me instead of the legal 35% on the side windows.

I also got around to re-ordering a full set of Bilstiens after I cancelled the order with lowering springs. They should be here Monday. God only know when I'll have them put on. I think I've surpassed $15K into the car now...certainly not one of my better financial decisions, but damn me if I don't grin like an idiot everytime I sit down, push in the clutch, turn the key and the car rumbles to life.

 

These cars definitely darker tint than is legal.
My Camaro had tint so dark you had to roll the windows down at night, so when I got my Firebird, I went with the 35%, and it wasn't dark enough.

Anyway, getting the tint shouldn't be a problem, but getting your vehicle inspection might,
; they're supposed to check that.

Either ask around for a lenient or morally lax shop, or roll the windows down before you get there, and then take off the window cranks so they can't roll them back up.

On my current car, I would roll the windows down, then pull the fuse under the hood.

 

Heh. My RX7 was tinted at 22% and I had to roll down the windows at night. It was like being in a fucking tunnel if I didn't, and yeah 35% definitely isn't enough. If only they made a 28% or so.

We don't have inspections here, so that isn't a problem. My appointment is next Saturday, so I'll see what they can do.

Also, I spent the whole day today at the auto repair shop as they replaced my e-brake cables. My e-brake still doesn't work. Now they're thinking it may be the handle assembly. At least they didn't charge me for today, so I got all new cables for free. Yay? Fuck you for making me sit in your waiting room for 8 hours on my day off and my car is still fucked up.

EDIT: My Bilsteins showed up today. Now I just need to get them installed.

 

I did 5% on my Z06 and it almost ruined driving it. Driving at night was completely unsafe and even during the day it was generally wise to roll them down to see around corners.

 

Soooo......

A few days ago, I noticed my temp gauge (99 toyota camry-133,000 miles) was a bit high, after I came out of a red light, the temp dropped back to normal. Today, I saw the same thing, except at an intersection, it actually touched the red-line. I immediately pulled over into a gas station, and popped the hood; where I discovered a 3 inch hairline crack in the top of my radiator. I let it cool for close to 1/2 an hour, and limped home, and refilled the coollant. My question is this:

1. is this just a radiator issue, or am I looking at a head-gastket/engine issue too..

2.did I fuck up adding coollant to the reservoir tank first, rather than to the radiator first? I assume so, because of air bubbles...

3. If I get it fixed tomorrow, what should I lookout for for trouble signs?


Thanks! (Gunshot)

 

Don’t have much import experience but it’s a coin flip, I’d get the radiator replaced and go from there, sounds like you might have caught it in time to keep the head from warping.

 

Yeah prob just the radiator at this point doesn't sound like things spent too much time at critical temps.

 

I ended up going with 15% all around because Fuck tha Po-lice.

I would've swore my RX7 had 22% on it, but now I'm thinking I must've gone nuts and had 5% limo tint put on it. This is dark, but not as dark as my RX7 had.

Baby with her shiny new shoes and tint:

 

So, what exactly is the difference between "motorcycle" antifreeze and regular car antifreeze?

I ask because in checking the coolant in the Ducati, it was low and I want to enjoy it this weekend, so I added some from my emergency car kit.

 

well it is more of what the base and additives are. it should say some sort of standard it needs to meet and go find aftermarket from there.

 

Do not mess around, and change the fluid as soon as you get the chance. I am sure Ducati has some kind of proprietary additive in their antifreeze and if it is too much different will eventually cause corrosion where you do not want it. I am not a mechanic or anything, just years of seeing this kind a shit come back and bite someone who lets a wrong mixture sit in their vehicle too long.

 

Don't mix colors. Orange and green together will create goo. As Chevy and Dexcool user, this is one thing I know.

 

Just an update on my/ Jungle Julia's LS swap: I finished the exhaust Y-pipe. As I mentioned before, my process was thus: starting from the exhaust manifold flanges, I welded on sections of tubing until I had it finished.

Spoiler

In case I haven't mentioned it before, this was cobbled together from 100% recycled materials.
The reason for the flex joint on one side is to ease installation and removal; far too many times, I've experienced custom exhaust systems that were welded up on the car, and once you remove it, it springs out of shape due to stresses that were incurred during the welding process, or pipes that were forced into place.
Then when you try to reinstall the system or component, you've got to pry every damn piece into place to get it back together.

Not for me.

Also, since the LS1 manifold outlets are at different angles (and thus, the studs are pointing at different angles), I don't want this thing fighting me whenever I have to take it off.

I would have gotten it done faster, but I've had nothing but hell from my welder. I'm using a Hobart Handler 140 with argon to weld everything, AND IT'S NOT WELDING HOT ENOUGH. The only way I can make exhaust tubing weld together is with the machine at maximum power, and I have to pre-heat the material with a torch - IT SHOULDN'T BE LIKE THIS. Seriously, it can't penetrate exhaust tubing with .023 wire at maximum voltage.

I've used MIG welders for almost 20 years, and I know how to set them up, and I know how they're supposed to perform. This one was working fine when I got it, but it's been sitting under a table in my shop for a year or so, and this it the first time I've used it in a good while.
I've got 118V out of the wall, no extension cord, 26V on the internal contact points when the trigger is pulled, I'm using 75/25 argon with solid wire, no resistance on the ground cable, I'm running it at the correct polarity, and there are no wire-feed problems.
Just to be sure, I took it to a friend who owns a body shop, and half of what he does is MIG welding. He tried my welder and his welder on the same pieces, and he told me something was wrong with mine (which I already knew).

Apparently there is a circuit board on the Handler 140 (and ONLY this Hobart model) that goes bad, and causes shitty welds. The problem is that this circuit board cost almost the same price as a new welder. I'm just going to keep on with this one until the project is done.

Lastly, just a reminder that if you want to follow my build, it's on thirdgen.org: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/758706-4-8-swap-factory.html

 

Fuck me.

Ever since I installed my red calipers I've had no e-brake. I replaced the entire system (All new cables and the handle assembly) and still no e-brake. At least I now I have a leather e-brake handle now, which is a small condolence (Much like the steering wheel, when it wasn't leather it just felt cheap to me.)

So....I just spent $180 ordering a set of AC/Delco rear calipers from rockauto.com. I really like my red calipers, but I like having an e-brake more. Maybe I'll just take them down and have them powder coated before I have them put on...

In other news, the Bilsteins will be going on next weekend. They should really wake the suspension up seeing as damn near everything under there is new except the shocks and struts.

I also have a new AC/Delco starter sitting in the back. Supposedly the car has a new starter, but I have my doubts.....more then once it's cranked the engine a couple times and then just spun. If memory serves correct that's the bendix going out. Whatever the case, I've got a new one waiting in the wings if this one does shit the bed.

Also....this is almost tempting: A 96 Camaro RS with 6500 miles. The bid is at $3500 at the moment. The car hasn't been driven since 2002. If the engine isn't seized, it could be interesting...Replace all the fluids and seals and have practically a brand new car for around $8K. I guess the biggest issue being a SoCal car is where it spent all it's time sleeping....if it was close to the ocean I would imagine the wiring might be corroded so bad it's not worth messing with. I'm also sure it was not properly prepped for long term slumber and there's a whole hell lot of issues that could crop up. It's still intriguing....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Chevr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Bilsteins are on. Perhaps it wasn't one of my better ideas.

It certainly stiffened things right up, in fact the front doesn't lift on acceleration as it did before and it goes around corners like a much smaller car, however...even with all new bushing on everything at the rear end, every single bump is noisy. Thump.Thump.Thump. I don't remember my 300ZX getting that noisy. I can see this driving me fucking nuts if they don't loosen up a tad after a few hundred miles.