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Discussion in 'Permanent Threads' started by Backroom, Oct 19, 2009.
I love this:
Oh joy, another issue has popped up with my Z. I was kind of expecting this one though....a fuel leak. Somewhere. After it's been run awhile and then sits, just behind the driver's side front tire there's a bit of raw fuel puddling up. I'm suspecting an 'O' ring somewhere (Or something else rubber that dried up while the car was sitting.) Any ideas (And yes, I realize it maybe taking a very indirect route before dripping on the ground) what rubber parts on the left side I should be looking at replacing?
Also an interesting twist with the running hot issue...I figured out that if it starts getting hotter than I like I can just turn the defroster on, which turns on the A/C compressor (To keep it lubed during the winter I guess?), and the high speed fan comes on and starts cooling it down pretty quickly. So, both fans are working, However it appears the high speed fan is not being triggered by the temperature level like it's supposed to. I've done some research on that issue and it sounds like a complete cluster fuck to chase down. Have any of y'all ever dealt with this issue?
The AC compressor comes on to dehumidify the air when in defrost mode... I know it sounds weird, but it works. Most cars these days cycle the a/c compressor in most modes, even if you aren't using the air conditioner.
Let me look up the wiring for your car tomorrow, and I might be able to give you an answer tomorrow about why you aren't getting high speed on your fans.
Also, your fuel leak might be one of the nylon fuel lines that got rubbed into after the years; I couldn't tell you for sure unless I saw it.
Nylon? Interesting....I had no idea they used nylon. I'm used to the old school metal with occasionally some short rubber line. How prevalent was the nylon usage? Like from the tank to the fuel pump? (In fact, does the LT1 still use a front mounted mechanical fuel pump?) Did they do away with the metal lines completely and replace them with nylon?
All the fuel lines in most cars are some sort of hard plastic even right from the tank.
I can't attest to the full length of the line, but I do know for certain that from the frame to the engine is nylon.
Chevy V8s haven't used an engine mounted pump since I think 1986. You've got an in-tank pump, and God help you if it goes bad, because 3rd and 4th gen F-body tanks are a bitch and a half to get out.
Toytoy, I looked over the wiring diagram for your car, and I don't see anything that would cause a problem; all I can tell you is that some parameter for triggering the high speed relay is not being met.
Since it is possible for the high speed relay to come on, at least we know that the driver in the PCM for that circuit is good.
I'll check back if I find something more.
Hey Toytoy, did you ever get that fuel leak fixed?
In other news, some of you may remember that I've been talking about doing an LS swap on Jungle Julia's '89 Firebird for awhile.
Well, I started a thread about it on thirdgen.org, and because I'm too lazy to post all the pictures and text here (plus, I don't want to hijack the thread and turn it into "Bandit's next engine swap thread"), here's the link:
I took it in and was told it was the metal line running along the frame and that the part is no longer made, so the line will be need to be taken off and sent to a repair shop. It kind of smells like bullshit to me. It also cost me $115. The funny thing is....it hasn't leaked since then. They said it would probably take two days (Between pulling it, sending it out, and reinstalling it.) Labor was going to be another $115 + whatever the repair cost. If they're telling the truth, I can't imagine they're going to do much more then solder a pin hole, so how much can that cost?
They also quoted me $225 to swap out my steering wheel/air bag/horn buttons assembly. I know it's to much, but since I have nowhere to do it and the chances of me fucking up the air bag R&R, while low, is a possibility with horrible repercussions, I'll probably have them do it.
They are charging too much for all of that.
There ain't no way in hell it costs $225 to swap a steering wheel.
Look up a video of it, rent the tool from Auto Zone, and pat yourself on the back.
As far as the fuel line, I would have to see the damage, but that does sound high. I've repaired many a fuel line on the vehicle, but maybe there's something different about yours.
Meh. It is what it is. I'm about to be $9K deep into the car, but I wouldn't hesitate to jump in it and drive to NYC tomorrow. I'd probably be $6K into it if I did the work myself, but I'm not in the position to do that, so here I am. If I bite the bullet and have it resprayed, I'll be $14K in. I still don't think that's unreasonable. What else am I going to buy for $14K that's not only a kick in the ass to drive, at the bottom of it's depreciation curve, and pretty much restored?
I knew going into this it was a losing proposition, I've played with cars almost 40 years now, but this is my first rolling restoration. I guess it all boils down to I dig my car, even if it's not my dream car, and the damn thing is solid as hell. I'd much rather the car was a '61 Impala bubble top, but we play the hand we're dealt. I was dealt a '96 Z28 with a 6 speed. Some folks don't even get dealt that hand, so I'm happy.
Son. Of. A. Bitch.
I dropped my car off Wednesday morning to have the fuel leak taken care of. I was told it would be there overnight because the part was no longer made and had to be sent out to a shop for repair. I went online and saw Summit sold the pressure line and return, made by AC Delco available. So I was kind of WTFing. Thursday my car wasn't ready. Friday my car still wasn't ready. I finally got it back today and couldn't get a straight answer out of them as to what the fuck the problem was....or even if it was nylon or metal line. The bill was $450 plus the initial bill of $115 to diagnose the problem. On the plus side the leak seems to be fixed, but I'm calling bullshit on them having my car for 3 days to deal with a small fuel leak and charging me damn near $600.
And a little upgrade for my car....a Pro 5.0 shifter with a Lou's short stick. I did a bit of looking around and pretty much everyone seems to prefer this shifter over the Hurst or B&M, and most certainly over the stock set up. The stock shifter is fine in it's own way I suppose, but I've already had a few annoying issues with it.
This set up seems to be more of a "Snick, snick" type of shift rather then the longer throw of stock and the short stick cuts down the throw a bit more. It was about $250 for all the pieces.
Toytoy, I can't say with total certainty that they're ripping you off (they did fix the leak, after all), but it certainly sounds suspicious.
I think this is a case of the shop seeing that you have some money and you're willing to pay whatever they charge, so they're padding the bill.
The labor estimate to change your steering wheel is .7 hours, and that's if you take a cigarette break halfway through.
There ain't no way in hell it's going to cost $225.
You might want to ask around about a different shop to start going to.
Also, you might want to take it to another shop just to double check the work that they did on the fuel line. I'm curious as to how a repair on a fuel line comes out to that much; I can't think of any reasonable answer, and I've repaired SHIT-TONS of fuel, brake, and hydraulic lines over the years, ON THE VEHICLE, without having to send it out to a third party.
As a matter of fact, I'm going to be making some steel-to-nylon sections on Jungle Julia's car to accommodate the Corvette fuel filter/ regulator assembly for her engine swap.
I'll post pictures on here when I do it, although that probably won't be for a while. Lately, I've been concentrating on the wiring for her car.
I've stripped down the wiring harness on both her car and the donor vehicle, and I've separated all of the connectors and circuits. I've labeled all of the wires for their corresponding PCM pin locations.
Spoiler: Car porn
I've also got a fuse box out of a 4th generation Firebird to power all of this stuff, with wires also labeled.
Spoiler: Car porn
Woah! There may be a Ford in my future...
725 hp Ford F-150 on sale for under $40,000
The thought of turning any dumbass with $40K loose on the public roadways with 725 horse is kind of frightening. Especially in a pick up....that's a recipe for disaster.
yea. even a mustang gt is 450hp for under 40k. that is insane hp for the price.
John Haynes, famous for the ubiquitous Haynes Manuals, died today.
I know that whenever I've bought a new vehicle, the first thing I bought for it was a Haynes.
I've got a 2006 F150 with the 5.4l and 150k on it. I need to replace the spark plugs, coils and throttle body already due to codes. Anything else I should look at while I'm replacing these parts? Hoses and belts look fine.
truefully don't do the plugs unless you really have to. they have special kits out for those plugs because they break off in the head so much.
Something that has boggled my mind for years is why Ford has chosen to have the SVT Raptor F150 powered by the 3.5L Ecoboost V6, and not turbocharging the 5.0 Coyote V8. I've driven both engines in F150s, and even though the Ecoboost is rated for more power, I've never noticed a difference in performance.
Plus, the 5.0 has a HUGE advantage: If the water pump fails, you can replace it in a parking lot, by removing four bolts. To replace an Ecoboost pump, you need special tools, and have to remove the valve covers and timing chain.
Don't believe me? I'm doing one at work right now. I'll post pictures. It's a fucking ordeal.
Ford could just mildly boost the 5.0 (like 7-10 psi), and make more power than four wheels could handle in the Raptor.
So why don't they do it?
Why do you need to replace the throttle body? What are the codes?
If you have the plugs replaced, be prepared to spend a lot. The 3V Ford V8s have a bad habit of breaking spark plugs in the heads; I've seen this happen too many times.
When you have this done, be sure that the mechanic soaks the spark plugs with WD-40, or some similar lubricant BEFORE they take the plugs out.
Just do a search on "Ford 5.4 broken spark plug"
A few months ago, we had a 2004 F150 with a 3V 5.4 come in, and six of the plugs broke in the head. The shop I work at charges $50 per plug to remove them.
Jason, I don't want to scare you, but I'm just telling you what I've seen. For the record, I've never broken a 3V Ford spark plug, BUT that is because I've always been VERY careful replacing them.
Those broken plugs....do they also happen to plague Lightnings from that era? Because after seeing that last night about the new blown F150s, that made me think "Hmmmmm....you know I really like 2001 or so Lightnings" and kind of went scouting on prices and such. It'll also leave folks scratching their heads if I go driving cross country with a Lightning pulling a trailer with a Z28 on it.....