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The Automotive Thread

Discussion in 'Permanent Threads' started by Backroom, Oct 19, 2009.

  1. dixiebandit69

    dixiebandit69
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    It sounds like your fans aren't coming on, at least not to full speed.

    Nobody makes a four row radiator for these cars. The factory radiator is very adequate.
     
  2. toytoy88

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    That's kind of what I'm thinking, although it could be the radiator is gummed up from that 90's Delco anti-freeze.

    In other news, my rear end clunking noise is back. Only at low speed (1-3 mph), only on uneven pavement, and only after everything warms up. I drove about a dozen miles the other day at 50-55 mph and when I pulled into the parking lot....there was the clunking. When I left a couple hours later, everything had cooled down and no noises. When I got home....clunk, clunk, clunk. I swear it sounds like a binding up u-joint, but I know that's not the case.

    I'm wondering if the rear end oil has lost it's viscosity and is breaking down under heat, or possibly someone topped off the rear end without adding the Delco limited slip additive? From what I've heard that rear end HAS to have the additive to give a bit of friction to allow the clutches to work properly. Either way, I'm having the rear drained and refilled and hopefully that rectifies the noise.

    Other possibilities are the e-brake cable may be binding up somewhere, or maybe an exhaust hanger I guess. It sounds to be an external noise, not an internal one, but it sounds like hell. Any ideas?
     
  3. toytoy88

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    Just had the rear end drained and refilled (Everything was good in the differential), also since I have C-Clip axles I also had them go ahead and replace the axle bearings while they were in there so it shouldn't have to have the axle cover dropped again for a few years. Also had them check the e-brake adjustment, since beyond binding U-Joints the next most likely noise is a brake hanging up. We'll see...I have to drive across town for a job interview tomorrow and hopefully it will be quiet.

    Also just ordered the front upper & lower control arms (w/bushings & ball joints) for both sides and should get those installed in a couple of weeks.
     
  4. toytoy88

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    Across town and back without any horrible sounds from the rear end! Yay!

    Oh yeah....and I got the job.
     
  5. wilder111

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    ok, so I'm hoping one of you guys'll have an idea about what this might be(I'm pretty mechanically retarded); I have a 1999 toyota camry(4 cyl) ((yes I know, but it runs, was given to me by my late grandfather, and otherwise works)). When I go and start it in the morning, often I'll have to manually throttle the pedal to keep it in idle for a few minutes, after which everything is fine(the car seems to "Wake up"). This only happens if the car has sat for long periods of time. my question is this;
    1- is this the head-gasket?
    2-if not HG, what else could be causing this?
     
  6. wexton

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    when you say long time do you mean it does that every time it starts from being cold?

    if so it sounds like your iac(idle air control) valve.
     
  7. Nettdata

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    Yeah, my Shade Tree expertise says the same... a friend of mine with an old Camry had the same issue and it was the ICV.

    He did successfully clean it a few times with some air intake cleaner which let it run a bit better with very little work (undo a hose clamp and spray some shit at the valve), but in the end it only lasted a few weeks/months after which he replaced the thing which fixed the problem.... and it was a relatively easy replacement.
     
  8. wilder111

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    Correct; I should've also mentioned that the ubiquitous "check engine" light is on, for some sort of "Vacuum" issue. I did get bold a few years back and replace all the spark plugs myself, but I don't think that would relate to this(but you guys would know better).
     
  9. toytoy88

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    My Durango did the same thing at one point, it was the idle air. As Nett mentioned it can be cleaned and function for a month or so until the problem comes back. It's best to just replace the valve and be done with it.
     
  10. Kubla Kahn

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    Im sure this has been posted before but this man is doing life so much better than me:

     
  11. dixiebandit69

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    Go to your local auto parts store and have them scan your car. Then report the codes back here.
    Like everyone else said, it sounds like the IAC valve, but there may be other things at play.
     
  12. toytoy88

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    Here's an interesting little tidbit that shocked me: My 6 speed uses ATF, not 90W.

    At first I thought I was reading the wrong info, but nope...it gets filled with Dex3.
     
  13. wexton

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    and you have to watch power steering. I know Fords did it a lot where they used atf in the power steering and not ps fluid, fastest way to kill your ps is to put ps fluid in it if requires atf
     
  14. toytoy88

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    Just picked up a factory leather wheel for $60 + $6 shipping!

    My only concern is the seller has a couple negative feedbacks for selling painted leather wheels. I hope to hell they didn't paint this one, but I figure at this price it's worth taking a chance.

    The seller started this wheel at $129 a few months ago, then dropped it to $100, and then this morning to $60.

    Fingers crossed.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-THRU-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
     
  15. dixiebandit69

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    Toytoy, before you change that fluid, let me recommend the GM Synchromesh transmission fluid. Most T56 owners (me included) reported better shifting with that stuff.

    Fun fact: if you thought ATF in a manual was weird, then hold onto your butt: Synchromesh fluid is actually 5W30 engine oil with a special friction modifier in it.

    Just about all manual transmissions since the early '90s specify ATF. The only ones that don't are medium/ heavy duty trucks.
     
  16. toytoy88

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    That's what I was going to use (GM part # 88861800)

    Capture.PNG
     
  17. Kubla Kahn

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    So advice time. I just won an auction for a car on Bring a Trailer. Cars out of state. Guy sent a copy of the title and bill of sale. Just curious as how to make payment the safest way without getting F'd in the A. Common pitfalls to avoid transferring titles, etc.

    92 MR2 turbo
     
  18. Nettdata

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    If you're showing up with a trailer, I'd be tempted to pay cash... maybe send him a few hundred up front as a show of good faith if he needs it.

    I've also had people fill out a power of attorney for all matters pertaining to the car so that if something does come up, I could handle it personally. Had to use it once, but it was a life saver. (Especially since I brought it up from the States).
     
  19. Nettdata

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    Oh, and if you're travelling with a whack of cash, be sure to bring all paperwork required to prove it's not proceeds of crime... your Civil Forfeiture laws are beyond fucked up.
     
  20. Kubla Kahn

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    The car drives, Im probably going to fly my brother out to pick it up in San Fran and have him drive it back. Im thinking a wire transfer may be the route I go? But transferring that much before I have my hands on the keys freaks me out quite a bit. Apparently wire transfers are the norm and the suggested method on BaT.