I thought such a computerized junkyard network existed pre-mass world wide web. When my dad and I went through a miserable experience with a 1988 Saab 9000 Turbo in '94, the one easy step was finding junkyard transmissions; one big nationwide computerized network, baby. I'm not sure they could find a side view mirror to your exact specifications, but the junkyard we dealt with in Michigan also found a driver seat that matched my dad's E30... And that particular car was originally meant for some senior NATO officer and his wife to drive in West Germany, rather than for sale in the U.S.; it had a few oddities to it. My dad was expecting the interior to become an ugly duckling, but voila, they matched the seat color exactly. So yeah, #csb and all, and I haven't dealt with junkyards in over twenty years, but I'd like to think finding what you need wouldn't be more than moderately difficult.
Speaking of wiring an LS swap.... LS6 into my 64' Nova with a 4L80E trans and all Holley Dominator EFI set up. Did I mention that I absolutely hate wiring? We also finalized a color for the '69 Cougar Eliminator clone that I've posted in here. Factory Competition Orange. Should catch a few eyeballs at local car shows and be a nice rolling business card
How to make a fortune in the classic auto game: Barrett-Jackson 2001: 1959 Caddy once owned by Joe DiMaggio's brother Vince. Sold for $9075. e-bay 2018: 1959 Caddy. "Reportedly, Given to Marilyn Monroe By Joe DiMaggio Reportedly, Painted by World Famous Customizer George Barris." Bidding is at $92,001, reserve not met. "We have no hard documentation to prove this story but also no one has ever put the time in to prove this cars History to be 100% true. With that being said, here is this cars prominence and undocumented, reported history. This car was bought by Joe DiMaggio, as a gift for his then wife, Marilyn Monroe." And with that, the whole tale falls apart. Monroe and DiMaggio divorced in 1955. She married Arthur Miller in '56. P.T. Barnum was correct.
Something for the car guys here... I'd never heard of the American Muscle Cars tv series, but I came across all 3 seasons on DVD for $10.99 shipping included. Tonight I decided to search youtube for a full episode to see if it was worth watching. The first episode that came up was the Dodge Dart....since I owned a 340 Dart many years ago, I thought this was a great one to start with. It's definitely worth watching. I'll let you decide: The seller I bought from has 3 more copies of the series available for $10.99 delivered if you're interested.
Here's something interesting that I never knew. Around '96 or so Chevy offered an F1 package for Z28s through their dealers. It was available in stages which included upgraded sway bars, Hurst shifter, SLP CAI (And other SLP parts.) The biggest visual difference though....RS ground effects. I always wondered why those why weren't available on the Z28....they do look good. Here's a picture of an F1 from a SEMA show: A plan is definitely starting to come together for my Z. Those ground effects with an SS hood, and 17" Z06 wheels with a 1" suspension drop. It would hopefully look like something the factory should've built, but didn't.
2004 Chevy Silverado LS 4wd 405,000 miles; 4.8L V8 About three years ago, I got the "reduced engine power" warning. I checked the connectors for the gas pedal, throttle body, etc. and all seemed good. I cleaned the carbon gunk off the throttle body that I could reach without disassembling it. All that worked fine for quite awhile. Then, about 3 months ago, I got the message, quick-cleaned the throttle body, and rolled on, no problem. Now, I've gotten the message three times in the last two days. After the first time, I wiped out the tb with cleaner, but after the next two, I just switched off the key, waited a couple minutes and fired it back up and rolled on (message gone). Obviously, I can't keep rolling around like that. I don't think it's the tb connector, so I was going to take the whole tb assembly off tonight to clean it. When I looked up some info online, it seems like the gas pedal sensor is often a common cause for this message. So, I have a few questions: - do I replace the whole gas pedal assembly, or just the sensor part at the mount? Is there a second sensor in the pedal level itself that I am not seeing? The interwebs has conflicting info. - should I do the full tb cleaning first, then the pedal; or vice versa? I want to do one at a time, so I'll know which one fixed it, if that makes sense. - once I take the throttle body off, does that gasket need to be replaced, or is that something I can wiped down and re-seat? - I feel like I can get to most of the throttle body inside without actually taking it off; however, I want to take it off to be sure it's super, duper clean. But, it looks like there is carbon build-up in here but, I can't possibly clean all that inside, and I don't know what I'm getting into there. Do I just leave that alone?
I'd test the APP (pedal sensor) first. Just watched this video, and didn't you have some of these symptoms in a previous post?
Ok so these are notorious for issues, unfortunately given your mileage there is no easy answer. I would start with the cheapest option available which would be the ground wire on the back of your engine, it’s a single black wire with an eyelet on it that can get corroded and lose continuity, when that happens it will set these DTC’s. The wire is held down by a single 10mm bolt, it’s on the rear of your engine behind your intake plenum, if you give it a firm tug it may very well break off, in which case repair it by running a new wire to an easier engine ground. After that it’s usually a crapshoot between the TPS and your pedal assembly. I would start with a complete throttle body and pigtail connector and go from there. Or swap out your pedal, it’s a 50/50 shot.
Maaaybe? I am old and so is my truck - I don't remember posting about this specific issue. I'll usually try a bunch of crap first with internet research before posting here after I'm stumped. I don't remember this issue stumping me before. Thanks. I had just watched this video before reading your post - checking that first, then on to the TPS (GM, why rivets?!) and pigtail. Posting the video in case somebody else needs it.
Well, damn that back of engine ground is a mother to check - can't see and can't reach. However, both those wires are good - the main ground was a braided all metal wire, in good shape both ends. There was another mounted there, that goes through the fire wall. It was good too. I also checked and cleaned the two ground wires that bolt underneath the driver side compartment. Alas, I still have the problem. I have the pedal sensor and the throttle body sensor in hand, and will try them next. I think I am going to do one at a time, so I'll know which one it was. Pedal first, because it's MUCH easier. The tb sensor comes with the new pigtail connector, and crimp connectors. I've never done that kind of wiring on my truck. I guess I just peel back the corrugated sheath, clip the wires and replace? Also, the original tb sensor is riveted in place, the new one has bolts. Is drilling out the rivets, like in this video the best way? I am not crazy about flinging around shards of metal near intakes.
Rush, I have been in this exact situation with a customer's 2006 Suburban. That truck kicked my ass, as well as. another guy where I work. The problem was that ground wire. Yes, we checked it. It looked and felt fine, so we moved on, running continuity and voltage tests, ultimately replacing the throttle body, pedal, and module, to no avail. Finally the guy took his truck to another shop, where they cut the wire near the firewall harness, spliced a new section of wire, and mounted it to the FRONT of the cylinder head with a ring terminal. He came back to my shop specifically to show me how they did it. Apparently the wire had excessive resistance, even though it looked and felt fine. The shop he took it to had seen this problem before, and he said that WHENEVER they get a GMT800 in there for a DBW problem, whatever the ultimate cause, they always make that modification. Needless to say, when I do Jungle Julia's LS swap (from an '04 Tahoe), I'm adding ground wires out the ass.
Thanks Dixie. I guess I'll go back to that wire next. I am changing the accelerator pedal sensor first, as it's $35 and easy swap. If that doesn't fix it, I may check that ground wire again before changing the tb sensor, just to avoid drilling out the rivets, until I'm sure I need to. Although, I know fuck all about wiring or where to hook another one. There's an empty bolt hole or two on the front of the cylinder head I could use.
This kind of blows my mind. I'm watching the American Muscle Car series on DVD. Supposedly the '64 GTO with a 389 tri power ran a 13.4 quarter, box stock. The '57 'vette fuelie ran a 14.3. Granted, they were using hand held stop watches to time these runs, but still....damn. As a comparison, my '96 Z28 with a 6 speed ran 14 flat according to magazines. I've owned/driven a lot of muscle cars and honestly they did feel faster then my Z, but I always attributed that to how raw and fun they were. The Z's power comes on smoothly. The muscle cars....man when those secondaries kicked in....it was like all hell breaking loose. Shit got loud real quick and you pretty much just held on for dear life trying to keep the car pointed the correct direction. The Z is more sophisticated and not quite the same thrill to drive, but it is certainly more useful as an everyday driver. I just find it a bit odd that a '57 'vette fuelie would give it a run for it's money and a box stock tri power GTO would probably kick it's ass. I'm just glad that in the 90's car makers finally figured out how to make horsepower and still deal with all the regulations placed on them. Other then the Grand National, Syclone, and Typhoon, pretty much everything out of the mid 70's -1990 were boring. Some looked fast, but no...they weren't. Not stock at least. Hell, my turbo Z's...Nissan screamed from the mountains that they had 200 horse power. And at the time, sadly, that was impressive.
Wrong! What the damn hell? Why would they make this with a Torx + hole screw, instead of a simple Allen or plain Torx? Dammit. Spoiler
No, it's called "tamper- proof" Torx, and its made specifically to keep average people from using it. It has NOTHING to do with safety. I had to buy a whole extra set of Torx bits because of that shit.