It all makes sense. Look at aftermarket headers for any V-8 engine. The idea is that the exhaust pulses are timed so they don't collide with each other. A similar principle is used with tuned-port injection, where the pressure wave created from one intake valve closing is timed to travel back through the intake plenum and hit another valve opening.
Absolutely. I never thought of the details/science that stuff before, but once you read up on it a bit it becomes an, "oh yeah, that makes sense" kind of thing.
I'm pretty lucky in that my '14 Sierra just rolled 40,000km... don't do much driving (joys of working from home). That even includes driving across the country a couple of times. I'm looking to keep it until it rusts out from under me.
Yeah I run 87 miles round trip every day, and the miles just seem to stack up. I’m looking for a good commuter car to start driving, most likely a Vibe, I could get used to 30 MPG again.
Over the weekend I did some suspension work on the DeLorean. Because of the bumper height laws of the early eighties, the cars were shipped over here with tall springs, giving them the look of an AMC Eagle. The thing rode like a lumber wagon and I hated the look, so I bought some adjustable front and rear QA-1 coilover shocks. I also got a pair of stainless lower control arms for the front to replace the very flexible mild steel factory arms. Now it drives like a completely different car. The best part is the adjustability. I can dial it in for whatever ride height and stiffness I want. I took it out on some curves and the cornering ability is unbelievable. Here is a picture from before: Spoiler And here it is after: I got caught in the rain the night before, so that's why the car is so filthy.
Here's some suspension porn for you. This is one of the new front shocks and control arm. Almost too pretty to put on a car that gets driven.
So, two things in that photo - one pointed out by rep. Yes, that right cluster light is burned out. Apparently, that's pretty common with these year models. eBay and other internet biznass dudes will tell you and sell you all kinds of ways to fix this. None of them matter to me, as I can see just fine. Not worth it. But, funny story . . . the original dash cluster had the same issue. Then, my truck got struck by lightning (? -maybe. There was some kind of rando power surge that fried the PCM and BCM and cluster and radio.) So, I replaced it with a new cluster (well, the insurance company did), and all the lights were working. Hooray. Then, about a year ago, that light died again. Alas. The other funny part of the story, was the dealer reset the odometer to match the actual miles on the truck, but did NOT reset the engine hour meter. So, if you divide the miles by the hours, I have averaged 111 mph. Second thing, that temp gauge just started showing hot. It always has run right at the 195 degrees or whatever it should be. Currently trying to diagnose that. It cools back to the middle 210 when I'm moving and only creeps up like in the photo at idle.
Nah, that was on a Peterbilt I was doing an alignment on a couple of months ago. About your temperature issue: do you have access to a scanner that will let you read engine data? If so, see what temperature the PCM is reading. This will point you in the right direction, and let you know if its an engine problem, or the gauge. FUN FACT: GM instrument clusters are not 100% accurate. They fudge the numbers a little to give more stable readings. I had to deal with this on a Tahoe today, in fact.
Surely there's a link somewhere that describes what happened... EDIT: http://www.thedrive.com/news/23244/...-on-railroad-tracks-before-crashing-into-tree