My 300ZX's from the 80's had power windows and locks standard. I'm really not familiar with 90's GMs, but it seems odd that a late 90's Z28 would have manual windows/locks with a 6 speed. And a velour interior. I could see it in a stripped down V6 Camaro, but a Z28? Am I missing something? This is an LT1 is it not?
I've never worked on or had one myself, but here's a pic from the LT1 page on Wikipedia and I'd say it looks pretty similar.
I know that gen Camaro had the troublesome Optispark but I don't know what symptoms would be or how costly/difficult it would be to fix if there was an issue. I had a '94 Z28 w/ 6 speed and never had any issues but I didn't have the car all that long.
It’s an LT1, aside from being a pain in the ass to work on those engines are fairly reliable. 200-250 thousand miles isn’t that much of a stretch if they are maintained properly.
Yes, that's an LT1, and yes, the optispark sucks ass, and is hard to change. Aside from that, its a great engine that I wish GM had used more; I was even planning on swapping one into my Firebird at one time, but it was going to be too expensive for the return. Beware that the synchronizers in that transmission might be worn out, and it might have to be taken apart; if that is the case, and you can't do it yourself, you'd be better off replacing the whole transmission. Ford Panthers (Crown Vic/ Grand Marquis/ Town Car) from '03 on have vastly improved chassis, suspension, and brakes. My '07 Marquis doesn't wallow or bounce. Edit: Question for Flat Rate, or anyone else in the know about GM's technology: WHY THE FUCK DID GM USE THE OPTISPARK DISTRIBUTOR TO BEGIN WITH? They could have used distributorless ignition with coil packs, technology that GM HAD BEEN USING SINCE THE EARLY '80s, but no, they had to go back to the '70s tech with this.
Besides pissing off mechanics everywhere? The answer is rather simple. The low hoodline of the then new 93 camaro prompted the lt1 manifold. To keep the low profile, the distributor had to go, thus the optispark was placed on the front of the motor.
2010 Toyota Highlander, V6 Something is not right during start up, but only when it hasn't been started in several hours. Back-to-back starts, it's just fine. Normally, it's the good ol' drit-dit-dit vrrrrroom. But, now it's drit-dit-dit-dit-dit-dit-dit-dit-dit vrrrrooom. The starter isn't sluggish or weak or skipping or changing pitch, it just takes longer to fire the motor. I've put in a new battery, I have change the air filter and I have removed and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner. I think it's something to do with the fuel, like build up in the filter, but I don't know what to check, before I take that on. I also don't fully understand how the starting system works - I thought that fuel injectors changed the way the fuel pump works, eliminating this sort of issue. But, I also have no clue what I am doing. Is there something else easy I should check first?
My Durango does the same thing. It all started when I had the fuel injection system rebuilt. As for a cause? It almost seems to me that the truck needs to build up fuel pressure before it fires.
No fuel leaks that I can see or smell. One think I have NOT done is check for any codes. I assumed if there was a fuel code, the CEL would come on. Is that not right?
When you start it, do you wait a couple of seconds with the ignition on before you turn it over to allow the fuel system to prime? When you turn it over and it doesn’t fire, do you smell gas? Back to back working leads me to think it would be ignition problems, not fuel. I’d be tempted to change the plugs and wires.
I should of been a little clearer, if the check valve has failed it will not hold fuel pressure and allow the fuel to leak back into the tank. So when you let it sit for a while there is no fuel in the lines and the fuel pump has to pump fuel all the way to your engine. If you had a fuel leak some where it could cause the same issue. I would assume the CEL would come on too, but there probably isn't to much that would cause it to come on.
Nett is on it, procedurely......turn the key, wait. The fuel pump will push new fuel up when powered. Definitely change the fuel filter, it's cheap and worth it to see if that does it. I work all repairs from cheapest to most spendy. It has been worthwhile. Meanwhile, I am a shade tree sort of mechanic, so ymmv with my advice!
I have not tried it that way, because it's worked for 8 years without doing that . . . but, I can see. I don't think so, because it always fires - it just takes a little longer. I can do that. I have not noticed and decrease in gas mileage, which I figured would be there if it was firing properly or skipping. For your suggestions and wexton's, I need to pay more attention to smells.
On my truck the fuel filter is on the tank, and you drop it from underneath the bed. But, on the Highlander, the fuel filter is with the fuel pump (according to YouTube) and that shit is a major job. And, requires a tool I don't have. I can take the seats out and take the carpet up and all that (phew!), but that plastic ring thing - I'm not too sure about that. Unless there is a second filter that I am not understanding.
You’d be surprised at the number of vehicles that have a little access panel that’s been cut to get at the pump/filter/sending unit rather than drop the tank, etc.