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PC/Windows Troubleshooting

Discussion in 'Technical Board' started by Nettdata, Dec 1, 2009.

  1. Rush-O-Matic

    Rush-O-Matic
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    Thanks, dude, for all the input. The PCB board is on the outside, so I can actually handle trying to replace that. I bought another identical drive on eBay, so maybe I can swap that out. If that doesn't work, I'll try smacking it with a hammer.

    This is fun.
     
  2. wexton

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    Make sure it is the exact same model and everything.
     
  3. Nettdata

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    The hard part will be the exact firmware... some firmware differences won't really make a difference, some will make all the difference in the world (as in it won't work)...

    it's a bit of a crap shoot at this point, but nothing really to lose except time.
     
  4. Rush-O-Matic

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    Au contraire, I can also LOSE MY FREAKING MIND DID I MENTION I HATE FUCKING CORTANA?!! LALALALALALALALALA

    Having to reinstall and recustomize is sucking balls.
     
  5. Binary

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    Often times the "click" is the read arm actually contacting something inside the drive (or being stuck on something), in which case a new controller isn't going to help. Just depends on what kind of click it is - it could be the read arm parking itself after failing to start up, which the controller might fix.

    The freezer trick really does work a lot of times. I usually get a long cable on a SATA to USB converter and work with it inside the freezer, but some people just freeze the drive and remove it, then plug it in. The latter can fail again as it warms up so I don't like it. Either way, wrap the drive very carefully in a freezer bag and get ALL of the air out of the bag, you don't want any condensation - I use a straw to suck the air out. Seal the bag (if you're using a long USB cable and working with the drive in the freezer, seal most of the bag and tape around the cable.

    Then stick it in the freezer and wait a couple hours. The tolerances are so tight in those drives that just the contraction from the cold temperatures will often unstick the head. When I did contract IT work, we actually set up a table next to the refrigerator in the kitchen because we used this so much.
     
  6. bewildered

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    Anyone know anything about printers?

    Our MG5320 is giving us the B200 error of death. I cleaned the printer heads and left it unplugged overnight as other forums suggested. I read somewhere that maybe the drivers got corrupted? I did was a think was a reinstall of the printer drivers and I still have the error. This printer always worked fine with my computer but we couldn't get it to print to el husband's. It gave the error shortly after I printed some PDFs that my dad emailed me, which may or may not be related.

    Any suggestions? I really don't want to buy another overpriced printer. I also have a bunch of backup cartridges that are about to lose their purpose in life. Bleh.
     
  7. bewildered

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  8. Rush-O-Matic

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    I got my "identical drive" and I got 5 of the controller screws out, but couldn't get the other two. I tried every trick I could think of except a tapping repair bit. The star hole finally stripped. So, since I essentially had a nice paper weight in the shape of my old hard drive, I figured I had nothing to lose. So, I opened the case. The upper most platter had two visible worn grooves in it. One about 2 mm wide at the midpoint, and one near the center where the arm stop against the hub. I opened the other one (got those screws out, but clearly they'd been set with Locktite or something) to compare, and of course, no grooves. It looked like they'd been made with sandpaper. When I swung the arm across the platter it made a scratchy noise. I think the center worn groove was preventing the arm from being able to move elsewhere, so I don't think the controller was the problem.

    I also compared the corner filters on the two drives. The replacement drive was white as white could be, but the bad drive had lots of black on the outside and little bit of black on the inside. It looks to me like debris got in there somehow and collected under the arm head and just ground in grooves. That sucker was sealed up pretty tight, I thought. Obviously, since it has a filter, debris / dust is a problem. How does it even get in there?
     
  9. Nettdata

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    Hard drives aren't air tight because a pressure difference (caused by heat, usually) could cause slight deformations that would lose tolerances.

    That being said, the little filters on the drive should catch almost all of any "destruction" sized dust coming in from the outside.

    It could be that what you're seeing on the filters is from the inside of the drive, as it was worn away... airflow moves in both directions through those filters, depending on relative pressure (out upon startup/heat-up, in during cool-down once it's shut down).

    Did you happen to take a pic of the guts?
     
  10. Nettdata

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    On that note... one thing to check is the little vent hole on the drive that says "do not cover this hole".

    The drive head relies on a cushion of air to work properly (which is why they're not a vacuum), and that little vent hole is what allows that air to pass in/out to provide that air cushion.

    If it got plugged up due to dust or something, that could have contributed to the failure.

    Looks something similar to this:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Nettdata

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    Oh, by the way, that's why the "Freezer Trick" works sometimes... it causes the air to become colder and therefore more dense and provides more of an air cushion for the heads.
     
  12. Rush-O-Matic

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    It didn't have a labeled hole, but after reading what your wrote, I see there are clearly places where air can get in. The whole enclosure was pretty dusty. I usually vacuum off the vent openings and fan intakes, but it was a lot dustier inside the box once I started taking things apart.

    These are big, so spoilers:
    IMG_20170701_123959.jpg

    IMG_20170701_124008.jpg
     
  13. Nettdata

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    Well, it looks like you just need to clean them... here's a handy instructional video to help:

     
  14. Rush-O-Matic

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    I need to turn the rotors on my truck. I could just do it at the same time. I should just keep polishing until their shiny, right?
     
  15. Nettdata

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    Perfect.

    Consider that process to be "Nettdata Approved."
     
  16. downndirty

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    I just got a Lenovo G-70, and man this thing boots slow.

    It's got 16gb of ram, and I'm planning on adding an SDD to boot from (256 should be enough, right?). I'll add a larger hard drive for slower storage.

    My question: what the hell else can I do to speed this thing up? It's running Windows 10 64 bit.
     
  17. Nettdata

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    The SSD will be night and day speed increase... you'll be surprised.

    Concentrate on doing that and then re-evaluate, is my suggestion.

    Just so you know, 500GB SSD are getting cheaper and cheaper, so I'd seriously look at doing that if you could. The Samsung Evo 500 GB is around $200.

    You can never ever have too much RAM or drive space... you'll always grow into it, and it's not like apps/programmers/games are becoming more efficient and smaller as time goes on. If you plan on having it for a while, save yourself an upgrade headache and bite the bullet now.
     
  18. Clutch

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    For what it's worth, the new Lenovos have a bunch of useless bullshit installed out of the box, and some of it makes a big impact on booting up because it makes everything else wait while it loads its bullshit. You can probably go to Control Panel -> Programs and Features and remove anything with the word Lenovo in the name or description. At the very least it will save you from closing some windows after a hard reboot.
     
  19. downndirty

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    Follow up question: Seagate hard drives (actual disk drives)? I've found the Samsung/Seagate drives to be cheaper than the WD I've been using for the past few years.

    Worth it to spend more on a WD/Toshiba, or is Seagate acceptable?

    I'm planning on a Samsung 500 ssd.
     
  20. wexton

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    Samsung for ssd, and WD for hdd.