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Can someone help me with this?

Discussion in 'Permanent Threads' started by sublime, Oct 20, 2009.

  1. Nettdata

    Nettdata
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    Stupid question... but are you putting the filter in the correct way? They have a definite airflow direction, and if you get it backwards, it can really impede airflow.

    Also, are your airflow settings on the controller in the factory default mode? They are usually a set of dip switches. If they weren't properly configured by taking static pressure measurements of your system, it might have the improper ramp-up settings that would cause it to trip.

    So if your furnace guy just came out and installed it without doing any measurements, then it might not be properly tuned for your duct flow.
     
  2. zzr

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    I'd start by checking your blower fan. It may be loose on the motor shaft or the hub may be cracked. That would allow it to work sometimes, but if it's slipping then there won't be enough airflow and it would likely make a noise from the vibration.
     
  3. Nettdata

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    Good call.

    I automatically assumed that the blower would be attached with a key of some sort, which wouldn't let it slip like that.
     
  4. Whatthe...

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    First thing I checked was the filter direction. In my typical paranoia, more than once actually. It's in the correct way.

    I'll check the dip switches too, but the furnace is 5 years old and this is the first time it's made noise.

    I'll check this as well. The vibration happens when the draft inducer fan starts up. The vibration stops before the blower fan kicks on. It's just a little 6 or 8" housing, I wouldn't have thought that fan has enough rotating mass to vibrate the ducting like it has been.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  5. Nettdata

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    You might have something like a mouse in the blower fan that might be causing it to vibrate as well... just because it's slightly out of balance.
     
  6. Whatthe...

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    Me thinks I found the problem.....

    Plugged Vent.JPG

    HRV intake vent was almost completely blinded off. I cleaned off the vent and haven't heard the vibration yet. I'll keep an eye on it to make sure.

    It's a variable speed furnace so I figure when low fire heat was called there was enough air available that the furnace would start, but if high fire was called the HRV couldn't supply enough fresh air into the house, creating the vibration on startup and the furnace reverted to low fire mode and threw the error code.
     
  7. Nettdata

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    Ha. I think you may be right.

    Funny how a quick visual inspection really sheds some light on things.

    I always found it funny when people would be driving and then feel/hear something, but never actually look to see what it might be... and then as soon as they did look, it was blatantly obvious what the issue was.
     
  8. Whatthe...

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    Totally. I'm super glad I didn't just blindly follow the service tech's recommendation and order a new inducer fan and blower fan. I'm 99% certain that intake vent was the problem.
     
  9. Nettdata

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    Says a lot that the "pro" didn't figure that out.
     
  10. zzr

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    The draft inducer fan could be doing the same thing. I had the same problem on our tankless water heater, which has a variable speed forced induction fan. It vibrated for a while then finally stopped working when it came off the shaft.
    Lots of "pros" are like that - keep replacing parts until it works again. Most people don't know any better, so the cycle continues.
     
  11. Whatthe...

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    I'm super irritated with the "pro" that came out. If he had taken a few measurements on how the unit was firing he probably could've found the problem pretty easily. I've since gone through the installation manual for the furnace and I'm pretty sure if he had measured the differential pressure developed across the blower fan it would have shown that there was a restriction in the supply ducting.

    I wrote him off as being an idiot when he told me I should turn off the HRV in the winter because it fights against the humidifier. I asked how is that possible when I have my humidistat set for 30% RH and the HRV dehumidistat set for 40%, so the humidifier maintains an RH of 30%, and if it gets above 40% then the HRV kicks into high speed and reduces the humidity. His response was: see they fight each other. Uh, yeah. Thanks for coming out, now leave please.
     
  12. Nettdata

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    I'd be tempted to call back the company that sent him out and bitch at them, assuming he wasn't an independent contractor.

    They might even throw you a few bucks to offset the stupidity.

    I doubt it, but it is Valentine's Day, so maybe the crusty old woman who answers the phone will have a soft spot for you today.
     
  13. GcDiaz

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    Guess we don't have a PC build/repair thread. Anyway, I need some expertise:

    Recently built a new pc, it was time to replace the 2010! model and I had some leftover tax return cash. Done it twice before, never ran into any issues with the hardware at least. But this one, I'm trying to install Win7 on it, just my old OEM disc to get it started before I lay into it with WAT remover etc. But the damn thing won't recognize USB inputs. This only happens at the installation page, the very first where you select language and other things. I *can* access the BIOS and everything works there, but leaving that and booting into the install disc somehow disables my usb ports, front and back. I don't get it.

    Motherboard is a MSI B350, "gaming tuned" or whatever. Is there some conflict I don't know about with Win7, will I need to spring for Win10?

    Included a picture of the build. I went with a mini ATX case for portability, and even with a modular PSU the crowding is apparent.
     

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  14. wexton

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    unfortunately get win10 I hate it but most games coming out are win10 only.
     
  15. GcDiaz

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    As it turns out there IS a conflict with Win7, in that this "ancient" OS isn't able to recognize my new mobo's USB 3.0 ports. Not every port is actually 3.0 but I guess they all end up in the same connector so that's enough. The bastards went and did it.
     
  16. scotchcrotch

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    What’s the best way to rid a yard of mosquitos?

    I use a few things- spray chrysanthemum extract, use a dynatrap, and also a thermacell. That still doesn’t keep me bite free and services don’t work all the time either so what’s the point?

    You really have to coordinate with your neighbors if you’re going to have a mosquito free yard.
     
  17. Revengeofthenerds

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    Funny timing, I'm actually going to lowes tomorrow to get some of this to spray the yard.

    I also wear these bands which make a noticeable difference.

    Nothing will truly keep you bite-free in the south with the humidity and everything, shy of staying indoors (and even then sometimes those fuckers sneak inside). But that's what I do to mitigate the issue.
     
  18. toytoy88

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    The fucking desert. I hate the fucking desert.
    For the life of me I can't remember the name of these contraptions, but there is a company that makes an anti-mosquito device. They're propane powered and emit CO2, which is what those little fuckers are attracted to. They'll pretty much clear out an area of about 50 yards from mosquitoes. They're something like $350-500 if I remember correctly.

    Found them, they're a bit more pricey then I remember.

    http://www.mosquitomagnet.com/store/mosquito-magnet-trap
     
  19. Rush-O-Matic

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    I thought you said your ducks kept your yard bug free.
     
  20. Revengeofthenerds

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    They do for the back.

    The front yard is a different story. That’s also where my kids play.