Can someone help me with this?

Totally. I'm super glad I didn't just blindly follow the service tech's recommendation and order a new inducer fan and blower fan. I'm 99% certain that intake vent was the problem.

 

The draft inducer fan could be doing the same thing. I had the same problem on our tankless water heater, which has a variable speed forced induction fan. It vibrated for a while then finally stopped working when it came off the shaft.

Lots of "pros" are like that - keep replacing parts until it works again. Most people don't know any better, so the cycle continues.

 

I'm super irritated with the "pro" that came out. If he had taken a few measurements on how the unit was firing he probably could've found the problem pretty easily. I've since gone through the installation manual for the furnace and I'm pretty sure if he had measured the differential pressure developed across the blower fan it would have shown that there was a restriction in the supply ducting.

I wrote him off as being an idiot when he told me I should turn off the HRV in the winter because it fights against the humidifier. I asked how is that possible when I have my humidistat set for 30% RH and the HRV dehumidistat set for 40%, so the humidifier maintains an RH of 30%, and if it gets above 40% then the HRV kicks into high speed and reduces the humidity. His response was: see they fight each other. Uh, yeah. Thanks for coming out, now leave please.

 

Guess we don't have a PC build/repair thread. Anyway, I need some expertise:

Recently built a new pc, it was time to replace the 2010! model and I had some leftover tax return cash. Done it twice before, never ran into any issues with the hardware at least. But this one, I'm trying to install Win7 on it, just my old OEM disc to get it started before I lay into it with WAT remover etc. But the damn thing won't recognize USB inputs. This only happens at the installation page, the very first where you select language and other things. I *can* access the BIOS and everything works there, but leaving that and booting into the install disc somehow disables my usb ports, front and back. I don't get it.

Motherboard is a MSI B350, "gaming tuned" or whatever. Is there some conflict I don't know about with Win7, will I need to spring for Win10?

Included a picture of the build. I went with a mini ATX case for portability, and even with a modular PSU the crowding is apparent.

 

unfortunately get win10 I hate it but most games coming out are win10 only.

 

As it turns out there IS a conflict with Win7, in that this "ancient" OS isn't able to recognize my new mobo's USB 3.0 ports. Not every port is actually 3.0 but I guess they all end up in the same connector so that's enough. The bastards went and did it.

 

What’s the best way to rid a yard of mosquitos?

I use a few things- spray chrysanthemum extract, use a dynatrap, and also a thermacell. That still doesn’t keep me bite free and services don’t work all the time either so what’s the point?

You really have to coordinate with your neighbors if you’re going to have a mosquito free yard.

 

Funny timing, I'm actually going to lowes tomorrow to get some of this to spray the yard.

I also wear these bands which make a noticeable difference.

Nothing will truly keep you bite-free in the south with the humidity and everything, shy of staying indoors (and even then sometimes those fuckers sneak inside). But that's what I do to mitigate the issue.

 

For the life of me I can't remember the name of these contraptions, but there is a company that makes an anti-mosquito device. They're propane powered and emit CO2, which is what those little fuckers are attracted to. They'll pretty much clear out an area of about 50 yards from mosquitoes. They're something like $350-500 if I remember correctly.

Found them, they're a bit more pricey then I remember.

http://www.mosquitomagnet.com/store/mosquito-magnet-trap

 

I thought you said your ducks kept your yard bug free.

 

They do for the back.

The front yard is a different story. That’s also where my kids play.

 

I have a leaky faucet and I can’t find the cold water shutoff to save my life. I’ve followed the pipes throughout the basement, it doesn’t exist.

Is my only option to close the main?

 

shut the main install a valve then you can turn on the main while you work. don't inhale ever seen sinks without valves.

 

Anyone in here trade options? Successfully?


I had my ass handed to me on my last account but that may have been because the spreads were too large as I was using a discount broker to avoid commissions.

 

Start watching these guys: Https://www.tastytrade.com. A lot of great free content and they have a great brokerage called Tastyworks. Sosnoff & company are the guys who started Think Or Swim.

 

There’s a new tenant next to me that moved in a week ago. To say they’ve been unpleasant is an understatement.

He knocked on our door the third day and said he was going to tow our cars if we didn’t park directly in front of our office. The lot is unassigned parking. This is my very first conversation with him.

He then proceeded to put out cones that I drove over to park on the spot that was in front of both his and my office.

This afternoon he banged on our back door like the cops were coming, then said “my bad, wrong office” then proceeded to call my billing rep a bitch as he walked away.

The list goes on, but it’s only been a week. He’s setting up to open a restaurant.

Aside from the obvious stuff- yelp reviews, etc, how can I fuck with his business? Legal ways with no repercussions.

Note- Up until today I was planning on extending an olive branch but after he called my billing lady a bitch it’s on and I’m not going to be satisfied til he’s out of business. This all could’ve been avoided if he had gone about this the right way. I’m seeing now his way of doing business is barking orders and expecting results.

Note #2- I’ve had two previous restaurants in that spot where we’ve never had a single issue and I’ve spent of many nights over there to have a beer or cut up.