My knowledge of payroll is pretty limited and it can vary in different states. That said, I would think you are either a salaried employee, paid a straight amount regardless of hours worked, or you are hourly and paid an amount per hour and subject to whatever overtime rules your state has. Again, my expertise is not in payroll.
I do know that there are different rules around deductions, benefits, etc., between part time, casual part time, full time, and salaried employees (at least in Canada). It could be that when they hit a certain threshold of hours, they then have to remit tons more to the government, so they do what they can to keep those hours below that threshold (at least on paper). I know nothing about payroll, but I've employed people in various roles and have had HR try and explain to me the rules around it... all I retained was "blah blah blah blah".
There is a reason why you can now major in Human Resources at the local State University. All the different hiring rules, Pension Rules, OSHA, Benefit rules, firing rules will make a person crazy. Not to mention rules on record keeping and figuring out the deductions and everything. It is absolutely soul crushing work and I try and stay as far away as I can from it.
Thanks guys. Yeah, "blah, blah, blah" was pretty much all I remembered, too. And, this girl is not salaried, and the question was only as it related to payroll for hours worked, not benefits like healthcare or anything. It's weird, because I know there are different rules on overtime - like, per week and per day differences - but, this was a question about straight up hours. I always thought it was: you agree to $10 / hour, you work 25 hours, you make $250 period. (I know less various taxes . . .) But, the way she phrased the question, it sounded like she was saying that they were paying her based on her average number of hours during previous pay periods, regardless of how many hours she actually worked this period. She's trying to get more info, so I can get more details.
Rush, that sounds pretty hokey. I think that your friend is owed some better answers from her employer, and she should definitely explore the situation, as you suggested. In the US, if a worker is not salaried, their hours must be tracked. They are owed their hourly rate x time on job, less taxes and other withholdings. The government is pretty serious about it.
It's such a dumpster fire at the management level. The employees can't get good info. One of the people that was complaining about averaging is salaried (and an idiot), and the company simply shifted the payday, so I think that was misleading and has been corrected. But, my friend doesn't keep her own employment log. She simply clocks in and out, and assumed she was being paid correctly. One of her coworkers keeps her own hours on a spreadsheet, and noticed an error, which brought up the whole discussion. She's looking into more now.
Anybody ever had a flat screen TV repaired or are they pretty much disposable now? I have a 55" on which the pictures went green and fuzzy. The last time I used a TV repairmen was on a big ass tube TV that only needed a new power switch. That was back when flat screens were just coming out and prices were still beyond what I could afford.
I have fixed two. The first one, I Googled my exact problem and found out I needed a new capacitor. (It was obviously swollen.) It was less than $5 at a local electronics store, and took me about 10 minutes to fix. And I don't even solder that often. The second one was just a bad connector cable, and I had to order a part and wait a week. I would just hunt up videos, like these two to see if you find your problem: One was my mom's and she was going to throw it away when she bought another one. I now have an extra 21" TV in the kitchen that cost me $5.
I found a Mom and pop TV shop, they charged me $25 to tell me it needs a new main board, that will cost another $200. I walk in and there are TVs everywhere, old as dirt ones, newish flat screens, all covered in a thick layer of dust. Only a narrow clear path to walk back to a desk. The old, old man looked like he should have retired from TV repair long ago. He was still old school, took my information down on a carbon copy work order. It doesn't even look like he's fixed a TV in years, more like he gives estimates and people decide to buy new, never coming back for their old TV. Ima talk to the wife and see what she wants to do. If I repair it I'll have another $225 in a TV with no warranty or I can buy a new one and be protected again if it fucks up.
When they say, "it needs a new main board," what they likely mean is, "I put a voltmeter on the power supply and it's receiving power, and I have no idea what is wrong it but there's only one other board in the television." It's like a car guy saying, "the engine is bad, we're just going to replace the whole thing." I fixed a TV a few years ago by replacing a swollen capacitor. Any shop would have told me, "it needs a new main board" because most of them won't actually do individual component repair. If you decide to buy a new TV (or want to take a crack at this one), it's totally worth pulling the back off the old one and inspecting the board for obvious defects. Electrical components are often a few cents in price, and take a few minutes with a soldering iron to replace, if you're at all handy and can borrow a soldering iron. Worst case, you get to inspect and try to fix something and it doesn't work, you're not out any money. Best case you have a new TV, and also a fixed TV that you can hang opposite your toilet so you can watch HD porn while you take a dump and pretend you're getting a blumpkin.
I just got in the door from picking up a repaired powered speaker from my PA... and guess what the problem was? A shorted capacitor that was constantly engaging the mute/clip circuit. I even pulled the boards looking for a busted/leaking/swollen capacitor (because they are so easy to break, and can even be an engineered failure in some designs) but didn't see anything... which you usually can about 90% of the time. But nope, nothing visible... and I didn't want to spend the time digging through the circuit diagram and probing everything. Had it shipped off to the manufacturer, and 9 days later, it was fixed... total cost to me, $81. Not bad for a $900 unit.
Yeah, I wish I would have waited for these replies. I jumped the gun and took it to the shop, not knowing that I could order the one board that could be the culprit for $43. The guy has killer markup, he was going to charge me $150 for the part. I had no idea TVs were so simple to diagnose, I'd never opened one up. I'm going to fix it, hopefully, by replacing the board. Then I will repair the old one if I can, keep it as a spare. Thanks, guys. Lesson learned, wait for TIB input, it may save me money.
Like others have said, there are boards to be found on eBay and other sites, usually very inexpensively. It's typically not difficult to disassemble TVs, and often you can find a Youtube video on how to do it. (Laptops too)
Alright former boyscouts and sailing aficionados, I need the name for a simple easy release knot for tying my guns/bow up to a line so I can leave them on the ground as I get up in my stand.
Quick release hitch, highwayman's hitch, whatever you wanna call it, is gonna hold your equipment securely. Of course, the clove hitch is a lot easier and works just as well (and is also useful for thousands of other applications). Of course, you can always just do a simple overhand knot but instead of pushing the loose end through at the end, loop it over itself like a shoelace and pull the loop through to tighten, so that way you can just pull the loose end to release it. But with something expensive like a gun or a bow I'd go with the quick release hitch or clove hitch.
I generally use a bowline. I loop it through my sling as well as the loop on my backpack so they both come up.
There's always tying a loop in the end of a rope and using a carabineer, clipping it on your gun strap. I did that this past weekend and it worked great.
I drive a 2002 Honda civic winter beater, currently the air only blows hot when the car is moving. Occasionally the temp will redline for 5 seconds or so. Any idea what it could be?
I was waiting for someone who knows more about cars than me to chime in, since we have some mechanics here. If it appears that your coolant is topped off and this is still happening, you could have a wonky thermostat, or if it was changed recently, even air in the system. But, apart from the coolant level, it sounds to me like your heater core is blocked in some way - either debris build-up or a crimped hose or something.