Another rant on i hate fucking engineers. Changed the HID head lamp bulbs on the explorer. Because they are HID they are screwed in with screws not twisted in like normal bulbs. The hid screw directly to the projector housing which is inside the headlamp housing, which means you can't see the screw on the drivers side. Internet says the easiest way to change them is to remove the whole bumper and grill to take out the headlamp housing, fuck that. There are 2 T10 torx screws holding the bulb into the projector housing. My torx key was to short to fit inside the headlamp housing so i chopped most the handle off a t10 screw driver left a bit of a nub on the handle so i could still grip it and turn it. Then i had an inspection camera in my right had while i held the screw driver in my left while looking at the screen of the inspection camera. More then a few hours later, i had both of them changed.
Wasn't sure if this should go here or the Tech Help Thead: Man Who 3D Printed a Lamborghini Aventador SV in His Garage Lamborghini heard about his project and proceeded to offer help and donated headlights, the dash, and steering wheel. I suspect Ferrari would have instead sent cease and desist letters.
Previous owner of the boat put in a small, 50w two channel amp trying to run four speakers. The way it was wired meant the amp was trying to run at 2 ohms and it wasn't happy. I picked up a Kicker four channel amp and went to install it yesterday. Real simple install Run another set of RCAs from the head unit to the new amp, disconnect old shit, mount new shit, done. Easy-peasy, right? Nope. New amp doesn't power on. Put the old amp in, powers up fine. New amp back in, nothing. Put a jumper between the 12v & remote turn on, nothing. What. The. Actual. Fuck?
The newer amps usually need a remote on signal. (I think they call it the REM). It's the signal from the radio saying "I'm on, you can power on now", so that the amp isn't always powered on even when you're not using the radio. Make sure it's got a good ground, and then see if you can jump the power to the REM port.
A quick google/ai search results in this info. (I guessed on the model number of the amp based on the pic) Yes, the Kicker KMA360.4 features a REM (Remote Turn-On) terminal, but it also offers an alternative way to turn on without one. [1] Remote Turn-On (REM) Terminal The Kicker KMA360.4 has a screw-down terminal labeled REM located between the positive (+12V) and negative (GND) power terminals. [1, 2] How to use it: Connect an 18-gauge wire from the remote turn-on lead (usually a blue or blue/white wire) of your head unit to this terminal. When to use it: This is the preferred method for most aftermarket stereos. [1, 2] Alternative: DC Offset (No REM Wire Needed) [1, 2] If your source unit (like a factory radio) doesn't have a remote turn-on lead, the KMA360.4 can turn on automatically using DC Offset. [1, 2] How it works: It detects a 6V DC signal on the speaker-level inputs to trigger power. Setting it up: You must select the DC Offset mode on the amplifier's end panel for this to function. [1, 2] Troubleshooting the KMA360.4 If the amp still won't power on: Check the External Fuse: This model does not have a built-in fuse. You must check the 60-amp external fuse on your main power wire near the battery. Voltage Test: Use a voltmeter at the amp terminals. You should see +12V to +16V at both the power terminal and the REM terminal when the radio is on. LED Indicator: Look at the top-mounted teal LED light pipe. If it's dark, the amp isn't receiving power or a turn-on signal. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
It has that and I even put a jumper between the main 12v and remote input. Nothing. Old amp fires right up with the same set up. *shrug* Per chatgpt, newer amps can be finnicky with voltage so I'll have to go back with my meter and make sure I'm getting enough juice.
You might want to be sure that the wire is providing the correct REM signal. Or just jumper it from the power lead as a test.
At least it seems that model doesn't have an internal fuse, which means you don't have to rip it apart to check for it to be blown. So.. yay?
This weekend I did the LS1 big brake upgrade on Jungle Julia's LS-swapped Firebird. This is an ingenious setup that uses all factory GM parts, available at any parts store. The factory brakes on 3rd Generation F-Bodies are pretty pathetic, especially when you consider how fast you can make these things. They had 10.5" rotors with single-piston calipers on the front; there was no other option. Starting in 1998, with the advent of the LS1 cars (hence the name), they got 12" rotors with dual piston calipers, resulting in drastically better braking. To fit these parts on the older cars, you need to modify the spindles and original hub/rotor. Also, you need a minimum 16" wheel for clearance. Spoiler The size difference is very obvious when placed side by side. As you can see, the new LS1 rotor doesn't have an integral hub, so provisions will have to be made to mount them on the 3rd gen spindle. Spoiler The solution is to mill the rotors down to the bare hub. I had a machine shop cut these down for $40 each. Then you mount the hub with the factory bearings. Spoiler Here is the factory steering knuckle next to a modified piece. An adapter bracket is required to mount the LS1 caliper, and that requires cutting and drilling. It's a pretty simple process, and the material is pretty easy to work with. Spoiler You can purchase brackets, or make them. I bought a complete kit for my Firebird, and I posted about it back on the old board. I chose to make them this time. I used a scrap piece of 3/8" steel from the welding shop at work, and cut them out using my original brackets as a template. Spoiler Here are the brackets I made, with one of the originals I bought in the late aughts. Spoiler Here's the whole thing installed; it even hooks up to the factory 3rd Gen brake lines. Bleed out all the air, and you're good to go. No more hair-raising panic stops. Considering that the 3rd generation F-Bodies are about 400 pounds lighter than the 4th gens that these brakes were designed for, the stopping power is pretty impressive. The next goal is installing 4th gen rear disc brakes. I've got all the parts, I just need the time to do it.
Very cool! It’s amazing what a difference good brakes can make. As GTE said, thanks for sharing and great writeup.