I more want the sound deadening for the family more then me, I can wear ear protection. My wife was 2 floors up, and was like WTF was that.
I guess this belongs here... apparently people are trying to sue home depot and menards because they didn't realize a 4x4 didn't actually measure 4"x4" https://www.usatoday.com/story/mone...-depot-menards-lumber-size-lawsuit/415874001/
I don't think you could buy true to size dimensional lumber in my lifetime and I'm 39. That lawsuit sure was a long time coming.
How were they harmed? Why wasn't Lowe's and 84 Lumber and every mom & pop lumber yard included in the suit? How stupid are these men? I find this to be total bullshit. My motorcycle is a 750, but it's actually 748. Can I sue Honda? What the damn hell people? I'm not saying every average person knows that a 4x4 is not actually 4x4, and the allegations that most people don't know that are probably true; but, how is this a class action suit? Fuck those men, fuck that attorney, and fuck any jury that doesn't tell them to go get bent.
Well piss me off... my fancy new patio table has the Herp. It's been out in the sun and rain for a few days, and as of this afternoon, 3 big blisters have formed on the top... one of them about as big as half an orange. They are all forming over knots, so what I'm assuming is happening is that the interior of the knots filled up with the spar urethane and over time has been curing and off-gassing. I've popped the blisters and tried to squeeze out all the air/gas, but it basically means that I'll have to fix the surface. I'm going to let it just sit out there for a couple of weeks and properly bake/cure in the sun, and then sand down the top and put a new coat of spar urethane on it. Lesson learned... if you have a deep knot hole, fill it with epoxy before putting the top-coat finish on it.
I should point out that every one of the blisters happened over a deep knot, where there would be a pool of uncured urethane collected that would slowly cure and off-gas, forming the blisters. So yeah... lesson learned. Fill those holes.
Just another pic of one of the blisters, beer can for scale. The marine grade spar varnish (epifanes, stupid expensive but crazy high quality) has been ordered and should be here by Tuesday.
One thing I thought I'd share with you, in case you didn't know this already. A big-ass dust extractor like that doesn't work well with small hoses like you'd find on contractor saws or small tools like random orbital sanders, etc., because they starve the pump of air so therefore it cavitates and doesn't pull a vacuum very well. This is because the big fan on the extractor needs a minimum amount of airflow in order to work, and that equates to large diameter hose, like 4-6", and the 2.5" doesn't flow enough. So, in order to solve that, I made this: I was talking about cyclones before, and what I did was take my Oneida Dust Doctor cyclone and put it on a Home Depot 5 gallon bucket, and the extractor side of the cyclone has a 2.5" hose with that 4" PVC coupler on it. You'll notice that the 2.5" to 4" coupler/adapter has a bunch of holes cut in it, and that is what connects to the 4" line to the extractor. This basically allows an increase of airflow that satisfies the extractor requirements while still pulling reasonable vacuum from the cyclone, and whatever I attach upstream from the cyclone. Basically, the air is being pulled from the cyclone/sander as well as the holes in the coupler, so the pump/fan doesn't cavitate. For instance, I use it a LOT like this: sander --> 2.5" --> cyclone --> 2.5" --> swiss cheese 4" adapter --> 4" --> dust extractor This does double duty in that it pulls the really fine dust out and drops it into the bucket, while providing enough air for the extractor to work. If it's pulling too much air from that coupler so that you get shit suction from the tool (Domino, sander, etc), just put some duct tape over the holes until it works. Mine has 3 holes covered, and 3 open, and that seems to work well.
Good to know. I never heard of this. Thanks. With all the shit I have read, I would of thought I would of came across this.
Yeah, everybody talks about sizing the extractor for the CFM you need to run X tools, but nobody really gets into the dynamics of the extractor. It's all about airflow, not vacuum, with the blower and filter on the extractor. You can have tons of static pressure drop, but if there's no airflow, it's not going to work properly. A 2.5" hose, never mind one attached to a power tool, just won't give you the airflow required to let the blower really work.
New to me table saw. 3hp. Bought it off kijiji from 8 hours away, had my brother in law look at it just to see if it was in ok shape. I missed that it was missing the side cover and a few small parts, oh well easy fixes. Paid 1350 when it run 2000 plus taxes.
Wow! That's a hell of a deal, and the exact saw I'm looking at upgrading to. Nice job! While I've been looking at their 12" cabinet saw, I just can't justify the added expense just to have the deeper cut. As much as I like working with bigger pieces, like 4x4's, it's just not in the cards. That being said I just had the electrician out this morning to look at running a new 100' service to the shop, as I've only got a 40amp 220 service right now so it's a bit tight running some stuff simultaneously. That side panel will be an easy fix, if you fix it at all... makes me wonder why it was off in the first place... just to get easier access to the dust inside? You're quite fortunate in that you seem to have a ton of space so you can use the sliding table that they offer for it... really lets you slice up 4x8' sheets with ease. My shop is much too small for that, so all of my big cuts are done with power hand tools and foam blocks. All in all I'd say it was worth the effort to go that far to get it. Congrats!
Thanks. The house is about 44 to 45 feet long. To the right and back you can see a raised concrete pad it is 13feet wide for about 28feet, then turns to 16feet wide except one post that you can see just to the left of the table saw. On the other side of the 16 foot section is going to be my clean/ventilated room. And on the other side of the stairs the room you can kind of see that is drywalled in is our storage/pantry room. If you are buying new take a look at cwi machinery. http://www.cwimachinery.com/product/stallion-3-hp-12-cabinet-saw-w52-deluxe-fence/. 3hp 52in fence(only the normal table, make your own if you want the full 52) 10 or 12 inch, 2100.
I've cut a few dozen of these state cutouts in the past year now and up to this point they've all been made from one solid chunk- six different species here in this one. Decided to use up some of the scraps of high grade stuff I've got sitting around (I never throw good stuff away, have multiple bins of scraps) to make this piece for the guy officiating my wedding. The look isn't for everyone, but I think he'll like it. I intentionally left the heights of the strips different, besides it being a massive pain in the ass to plane down I think it adds to the contrast and looks cool around the edges. Finish is a 50:50 mix of boiled linseed oil and oil-based poly thinned with mineral spirits, has two coats applied in the pic.
A little while ago a coworker told me she needed some help making mailboxes- she'd just bought a duplex and the existing boxes were falling apart. To keep them inexpensive she suggested I use pallet wood and I went Ron Swanson on her and basically said no, if I'm having something to do with this then we're going to use something nice. Besides that she's a great person and I feel like I owe her after years of support at the office, so I went to a couple of curly cherry boards that I bought awhile ago and was holding onto until the right project came along. I bought some plans online that were cheap and got the job done, and this happens to be the first time I made something that wasn't held together with screws- my first foray into basic wood joinery. This also meant firing up my router for the first time and it didn't go perfectly but was good enough and thanks to Titebond III I'm pretty sure they'll hold together fine.The tops are held on with brass hinges. Here you can see the basic joints holding them together. Now after carving in and painting the numbers by hand and finishing. They will be fully exposed to the elements so I went with spar urethane. Its a cliche to say the photos don't do the wood justice, but whatever- you get it and she is very happy. Also another friend recently did me a selfless favor that ended up being a gigantic pain in the ass for her to complete and I decided she needs something in return. She likes decorating her place with sea-themed stuff, especially lobsters (go figure), so I adjusted a printed silhouette and fired up the bandsaw. Took about 45 minutes to cut with all the details. In particular I am very happy with how the grain pattern in the wood lined up perfectly with the carapace and tail, it was a random chunk of nicer cherry I was holding onto for the right occasion again and the stars aligned when I laid the pattern on. This will be a surprise for her and I think she'll like it.
They look great... nice job! One thing I've come to realize is that I'm my own worst critic, and am the first one to see the problems with any piece I make. I'm sure you're the same way. She's not going to see any issues or even know what she's looking at, she will honestly love them and proudly point them out to all of her visitors. And yeah, that graining worked perfectly with that tail. One quick note about applying spar urethane I've learned the hard way... be sure to do it in very thin coats, and thin it out with mineral spirits for the first couple of layers. You really need the underlying coats to dry and off-gas almost completely before applying the next coats. I've also found that with cheaper spar urethanes (like you'll find at Home Depot), they will occasionally show little spots when exposed to direct, hot sunlight... at least for the first few weeks. I had that problem with my table... when it rained, the bubbles of water on the surface would magnify the sunlight and leave little marks on the table once you wiped the water off. The marks would go away in about 5-10 minutes, but it was kind of disconcerting. That behaviour went away after about 3 weeks, which I'm thinking is due to the complete curing of the finish. Needless to say I'm not happy with the cheap shit that's on there now and am waiting for a string of nice days so I can sand it off and apply the expensive Epifanes spar urethane I ordered in.
Thanks! I'm always my worst critic, no denying it. It's basically the way I was raised, no matter how well you do something it can always be better. I've gone through a couple cans of Minwax Helmsman spar urethane with gunstocks (I use it to seal and fill pores before switching to something more user-friendly for topcoating) and that was one of the first lessons I learned, you've really got to thin that stuff down and wipe on thin coats and don't rush curing or you will regret it. What you see is the result of maybe a dozen coats applied with 24-48 hours curing time in-between, and I told her to hold off on installing them until next weekend so it has plenty of time to fully cure before being exposed. Hard to the touch does not mean cured!
Yeah... the woodworking is the easy part when it comes to finishing with spar varnish... it's more about the patience and finding a dust-free environment, especially for big pieces. I had thought that I was going to be OK but didn't take into account the additional "thickness" of liquid spar varnish that had seeped down into the various knots in the wood (I used cedar), and that really fucked me over in the long run. One of the benefits of spar varnish is that it's tough, but also flexible... this allows it to stretch out with the expanding and contracting wood over the different seasons, all without breaking... but that also meant, in my case, that it allowed the top, cured layer to really blister out as the varnish in the knots was still drying/curing/off-gassing. I basically had to pop a handful of big blisters on the top to release that off-gas and allow everything to cure. Again... another lesson learned... be sure to seal knots with epoxy/CA/etc before applying the final spar varnish finish. It was pretty cool to see just how tough yet malleable that top coat actually was.