Just when I thought I'd seen every kind of half-assed repair around, I was walking out of the hardware store the other day and saw this: Seriously?! Trying to stitch-up a composite bumper with fishing line? Did this guy's grandma recommend that? I've repaired composite pieces before, but I used steel plates underneath with bolts holding it together.
No differences. Chevy and GMC trucks are the same thing. (aside from the name, small interior items, etc.) They have all of the same pertinent components. You can take a GMC door and bolt it onto a Chevy. Same thing with the engine/transmission/axle/windows/steering column/seats/etc. Just go with the one you can find cheapest. I personally don't understand why GM kept the GMC brand around when they down-sized after the bailout (they kept GMC and Buick, but they got rid of Pontiac. What the hell, GM?) Oh, and I think Ford makes the best trucks.
Like already stated, no difference really you will pay more for a GMC don't ask me why. Personally I prefer the GMC front clip, sold my 01 GMC last summer after 155,000 problem free miles. Next summer I will be getting another GMC.
As all have said they are all the same, only difference is body the looks. I personally prefer the GMC over the Chev, the chev's the bumber goes all the way up to the head light assembly, with the gmc there is a nice split, and it just looks so much better chev gmc
The GMC Truck brand for light trucks was begun to give Cadillac, Oldsmobile dealerships a truck to sell on their lots back in the 1950s and 60s. Back in the day, most dealerships only carried one brand. An upper brand Cadillac/Oldsmobile dealership was not going to sell a lowly Chevrolet brand pickup on their lot, nor was a Chevrolet dealer going to allow another dealership to compete against him if he could stop it. As stated above, there is no difference between a GMC or Chevrolet save for the front end and maybe front fenders and hood.
My truck is giving me problems again. '97 Chev with a 5.7l vortec. It has spark, 58-59lbs fuel pressure but it won't start today. It dieseled a bit when I first was trying to start it but now nothing. I am getting a couple of codes. P0125, Insufficient coolant temp. This was probably thrown the other day when I was flushing the coolant system. Also getting P1345 [pending], Crankshaft position sensor / Camshaft position sensor correlation, couple different things here. Either I have a bad crank or cam position sensor, my timing jumped somehow, or my distributor teeth are wore out. A crank or cam sensor being bad would cause no spark so I don't think one of them is bad. If my distributor teeth wore down I would think the engine would have started to misfire over time and not just all of a sudden stop starting. I don't believe the timing jumped.
Your distributor gear teeth are most likely worn, they get worn almost razor thin and cause a no start. It will not cause misfires over time, usually just a no start. If your mechanically inclined changing the gear isn't hard but you will need a scan tool to set the timing after the gear replacment. Mark the distributor before you take it out and replace it exactly how it came out. With a scan tool observe the cam retard readout, @ 1500 rpm this should be 0 degrees, anything else will cause a timing code. The coolant dtc is also most likely due to the coolant flush, if it continues to set then your thermostat is causing it 90% of the time.
I have a scan tool but it doesn't show me timing information, just codes. I have a write-up of how I should be able to do it without a scan tool.
Well I pulled the distributor this morning and after checking out some pictures and video on the Internet I am pretty confident that the distributor gear is the problem. It's visually worn and even with the distributor installed you can spin it probably a half inch and that shouldn't happen. $65 for a fucking gear. I am pissed about it but I guess I feel better knowing it happened now and not right after I sold it since I had it up for sale.
The teeth of the gear are designed to wear out before the teeth on the cam, supposedly the updated gear is made of slightly harder stuff. I have never had to replace a gear twice, always just the factory gear. Glad you found it.
Check engine light came on today along with a slight burning smell in my girlfriend's '98 Camry today. Had the codes run and came up with a consistent misfire in cylinder 1 and a random misfire in cylinders 2 and 4. I did the plugs and plug wires on this car about 3 years/30k miles ago so I don't think it's either of those. Any other ideas? On another topic, I've been thinking about buying a Honda Ridgeline lately, anyone have one or heard anything about them?
What are the best scan tools for the money? I want one that is capable of live engine monitoring and be able to do older OBD1 as well as newer vehicles. I guess $250 or so would be the max I want to spend.
Most the cheap one's generally do not do OBDI, and generally dont do live data monitoring. And depending on what region(asia/na/europe). http://www2.otctools.com/otctools.com/newcatalog/products/08-160.pdf That will give you a good idea what scanner does what, and you can price it out that way.
Yeah the more I look the more I think I will have to sacrifice and get one without OBD1. I would rather have the engine monitoring. I found a few under $300 with both OBD1 and engine monitoring but reviews, at least on Amazon, were generally not so favorable and many that had OBD1 capability did it pretty poorly.
One of the best options currently for live monitoring is a relatively inexpensive bluetooth-enabled OBDII dongle and an app like "Torque" on your smartphone. You can find a dongle (I like that word) on dealextreme.com for cheap. You can also read and clear codes with one of these guys.
I had just clicked on this thread to post that after I read his post earlier while I was on my phone. A BT dongle is pretty inexpensive ($30-40) and the guy who writes the Torque app has a list of compatible versions.
Looks like that Torque app is only for Android. Stupid Iphone... Are there any programs I could get for my laptop? I gotta get some use out of it one way or another.
http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/pcmscan/index.php They do all the gdc(general diagnostic codes) for all OBDII, and do the enhanced for Ford/GM. For your basic home use you really only need the gdc's anyways. You can graph live data with that. I have actually used that program and found it to be very helpful. My 02 Civic was getting really bad gas millage, and was throwing no engine codes. So I hooked it up, and was graphing live data, and it was showing that the cts(coolant temp sensor) was telling the computer that it was 0 degrees, which is within parameters to set off the check engine light.
You could always pick up a cheap used Android phone off eBay or Craigslist - for these purposes, you could even get one that had a cracked screen or a broken case or something. It just needs functional BT and Wifi.