I've never switched to a K&N style wet filter in a vehicle but on every ATV I've owned I always upgrade to a K&N oiled filter with pre-filter. The only way you are going to suck oil from an oiled filter into your engine is if you way, way over oil the filter after a cleaning. Any small amount of dust that might be in that oil wouldn't hurt your engine.
I currently run a "wet" Stillen cai with my car and the filters are located just behind the grill, so very exposed, and I run a lowered car. I used to live in Florida and have driven through all kinds of weather, ie. hurricanes, t-storms, dry crappy weather, etc. When I wash her, I often notice the filters get wet even though its behind a water deflector plastic thing. I have had Zero problems in the two years that I've had the intake on the car. If it has ingested water/oil, it has been a miniscule amount nowhere near enough to affect(?) engine performance in the least. I believe gas mileage may have even increased by one or two. You can also buy some extra bags that you put over the filters to add to the water rejection. Also, because it is coated in a small amount of oil, I only need to change the filter once every 50,000 mi or so as they kind of clean themselves. Hope that helps.
I've been running just the K&N filter for 10 years, on the same truck, and I have zero trouble with dirt build up/air flow. You pop off the airbox cover now and the intake hose is almost factory clean.
Alternator help needed: Late last night, while traveling, my alternator died in my truck. I got a warning message "battery not charging" and was just able to make it the Autozone before they closed. I was using their tools, and trying to hurry before they closed, so I had to make a quick decision without researching anything. So, I had a choice between a 105 amp alternator and a 145 amp alternator. I'm not running a big stereo or second air conditioner or have anything that I thought I'd need the bigger amps, but it was only $10 more, so I went with that. [I didn't know, as it was not stamped on it (or couldn't see it) if the old one was 105 or 145. But, I assumed it was 105.] So, I put the new one in, in the dark, in the parking lot of the Autozone. Keep in mind that I have no idea what I'm doing, and I've never changed an alternator in my life. (But, it only took me about 30 minutes. Go me.) I feel like I got the belt tensioned and lined up correctly, all the wiring is tight and secure, etc. But, now when I slow down, like to a stop sign, and hit idle speed, my truck acts like it wants to stall. (In fact, it did shortly after I started it for the first time.) As it hits idle speed, the voltimeter bounces (from around 15 down to 14). I don't remember doing this before, and I also don't remember exactly what my idle engine RPM's were before. So, here are my questions: - is there a "break in" period for the new alternator? This seems like dumb question, but . . . I dunno. Like, maybe this will settle down. - could the pulley diameter be different on the new alternator, and if so, would it have an effect on this? - the bolts that mount the alternator have these plastic spacer things; I didn't have a torque wrench, and just went by feel. It looks like if I had cranked those down too far, I might have upset the serpentine belt alignment just a bit. Am I imagining things and/or could that have an effect? - is there something else I should've adjusted, after installing the new alternator to tune the engine idle speed? Stats: 2004, Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD, 4.8L V8; 235,000 miles (that was the original equip. alternator I changed) About a year ago, I changed the water pump, and replaced the (original) belt and hoses.
The spacers on the bracket that the alternator bolts to are designed to take up any casting differences on the new unit, as long as the bolts are tight you are good to go. As far as the belt is concerned there is only one way they go on, there is no adjustment, just rotate the tensioner to remove and replace the belt so I doubt you have anything off there. Being the only thing you changed I would go back to autozone and get another alternator, I don't use them for this reason, had issues with them in the past. Be sure to get a 105 amp as well, no need for anything bigger.
Like what was said, try a different alternator. There's no break in period with a new one. How old is the battery?
The 145amp alternator takes 0.75" longer belt then the 105amp. They both take the same pulley, the 105amp is a ad230 body and the 145amp ad244 body, so the bigger alternator has a slightly bigger body, which would move the pulley a little big, which would make it need a slightly bigger belt. 14volts on the voltmeter is fine, it normally charges around 14.6 if i remember correctly. And at idle it will not charge as much as when the engine is running, so that is normal. From what you said it sound like your alternator is running fine.
I could be wrong but with the belt tensioner that is used on a 5.3 motor I wouldn't think a longer belt would actually be needed. It's an auto tensioner so any small amount of difference shouldn't matter. The tensioner wouldn't be able to pick up as much slack but the tension would still be the same.
I've been reading online reviews, but I wanted to see if anyone here has any personal experience with the Jeep Commander. Thinking of getting one used with the 5.7L Hemi.
I had one as a rental for a month. Drove from Chicago to Indianapolis to Cincinnati back to Chicago and then around the greater Chicago area for the month. No complaints other than it fucking SUCKS down gas and is shaped like a big ole sail. The suspension is bad ass on them though. I parked in a resident only lot by "mistake" one night and opted to drive off a 2ft wall down a rocky embankment in order to get out. Took it like we were hopping a curb.
Okay, meant to come back to this yesterday, but forgot. I just wanted to follow up - I appreciate all the input. Because we were in a hurry, I had sent my buddy back in to pay for the alternator with my credit card, after originally watch the guy pull up the parts on the ordering screen. The second guy had already pulled the correct alternator (105 amp), and I didn't look at my receipt until yesterday to notice the cheaper price difference. Everything is working fine now, no voltage bounce or rmp drop like it's going to stall, or anything like that. I don't know what the deal was. The only thing I can think of, is that there may have been something (moisture or debris?) in the duct or intake hose that goes from the throttle body to the air filter. I had to remove it and rotate it out of the way to access the tensioner pulley. There's a little appendix thingy that hangs down just before the Mass Air Flow sensor. I have no idea what it is - it looks like it's supposed to collect debris or moisture or . . . no idea. It was upside down during the change, and maybe something got in there? This thing: Anyway, thanks for everybody's two cents.
Yeah if the MAF wasn't reading correctly for some reason that could have caused your truck to stall or want to stall at idle, but there's a bunch of other things that could cause that also.
Poor running may have been caused by resetting the ECU when power was disconnected. The computer has to relearn optimum fuel/spark settings. The dip in voltage may have just been because the engine was slowing down at idle. Once you drive enough, everything should be back to normal.
Does anyone have experience shipping wheels+tires? I don't really know much abut shipping large and multiple items through ups/fedex/usps or whomever does it, could someone point me in the right direction as to where to start looking, or some tips?
Rims and tires get shipped all the time through a curriers. If a customer wants a set of tires and doesn't want to wait for the stores stock order they just throw them on DHL/Loomis. Mind you this a Kaltire and they probably get a killer deal because they ship all the time. Rims usually have a box that are made for them so they fit snuggly in it. Even the odd time I have order some tires through one of our suppliers i just toss them on DHL and have no problems.
I've shipped rims and tires by going to the UPS store, and having them box them and ship them that way. It's not cheap, so I always made the buyer pay the shipping.
This is kind of a rant, but I'm tired of seeing insanely expensive rat rods. The whole point of them is to be cheap old fun and be far from restored. Why are people all of a sudden asking the price of one as if it were a fully restored vehicle?
Hey guys, got a quick question that I might have already made my mind up about. Since I was a kid, I've always wanted an Evo. Now that I've got a good paying job I was looking at getting one in a year or two (that does sound a little crazy though, thinking that far ahead). Does anyone on here have one/driven one? Is it as much better than the Sti as I think it is? Is the Infinity g37 (which I was also looking at) that much better for the same money? Anything else comparable I should look at? I know this post sounds all over the place, but day drinking seems to do that. Thanks.
I've driven an Evo X and the most recent generation of STI. It wasn't anything more than a test drive so I can only comment on how they drive in regular street driving. I thought they were pretty similar as far as handling and power delivery go. I like the way the Evo looks but the 5-door STI is more practical. Both of them have slightly chintzy interiors which you expect since they're just hopped up versions of economy cars. There's not a whole lot of other choices if you want 4 doors, all wheel drive and a turbo 4. If you want things comparable to the G37 you can look at the Genesis coupe, 1-series BMW's, Audi's, Mustangs, etc. There are a bunch of rear wheel drive coupes available. It depends on exactly what you want and what you have to spend.
I've owned a Hyundai (albeit a 2004) and it was the most unreliable thing I've ever owned. Quality-wise can I trust them? And just as a point of reference, I'll be able to spend roughly 30-35k, and being poor growing up, I'm like a kid in a candy store.