One of my friends had this turbo diesel truck with an exhaust that had to be at least the width of a coffee can. When he stepped on the gas that shit was like Spy Hunter to the cars beside and behind him.
Frequent lurker, rare poster. I have a 2008 Subaru Impreza, mannytranny, 60,000 miles of fairly hard driving. The throw-out bearing went with its adorable whine every time I pushed the clutch pedal in. Then the whole thing went. Here's my question: I took it into a semi-reputable shop to get the clutch replaced (OEM, allegedly), and I'm not sure how I feel about the result. Obviously, it goes into gear, but the pedal feels as soft as it was before the clutch gave up the ghost. Shouldn't it feel stiffer? I want to make sure I'm not being taken for a ride here. Thanks for the help.
This. Although not necessarily a bad thing depending on the motor. Difference of opinion, but I run catless on a white car and although the bumper stain is prevalent, it isn't the end of the world for me. Cleaning the bumper is worth the trade off for me (less back pressure in a boosted motor, with a better sound to boot). The one thing you want to be careful of is how strict your emissions testing/regulations are. In Minnesota, there is no emissions testing so we don't have to worry about passing sniffer tests, etc. In a lot of other states that isn't the case. Definitely check in to your local laws if you care about the hassle because that fine can be substantial.
I don't know if i would use the word stiffer to describe the feeling of a new clutch. But if you have a new clutch it should definitely hold better. If you are going on the word stiff, as in the pedal feels kind of spungy, that to me signifies more of a master/slave problem. Kind of like when you have spungy brakes it usually means you have air/water in the system, and if you bleed it you get better feeling back. You can get some nice Magnaflow high flow cats. In B.C. if the car came with cats, the car has to have them on it. It doesn't mean you cant change them out for some high flow ones, just means you have to have them on there. My cousin has a 01 F150 with a 4.6L, he made a custom true dual exhaust with Magnaflow high flow cats, and not much there for mufflers. It sounds really nice. He was worried that the cats would quite it down to much, but it actually made it sound better, it took away the really raspy sound to it, and kept all the good sound.
Just an idle question... I recently replaced my front right axle. First time I had attempted very much under-car work since I don't and haven't had a garage so mostly I stick to under-hood stuff. Anyway, in the end the only thing that was wrong is I didn't mark the camber bolts when I removed them to pull the spindle, and thus had to get the car re-aligned. I drove the car home from working on it and it had a little shimmy, but not too bad. However, the next morning when I went to drive it to the shop to get it aligned, it was making a fairly awful clunking sound, particularly at low speeds and in regular intervals as the wheels turned, and the shimmy at high speeds was significantly worse. I checked everything and nothing was loose, and now that the alignment is done, everything is perfect. So, it was obviously a function of screwing up my alignment, but what could have been making such a terrible clunking sound? I would expect a pretty good shimmy on the wheels but I'm just going over in my head what the knocking was.
On the dyno, my boosted Maxima saw 7 extra hp with the test pipe. It saw 3 less than that with high flow cats, which didn't leave a bumper stain. It was a no-brainer for me, as 3 whp is about the difference between a 50 degree day and a 70 degree day.
Exactly. It doesn't make sense from a hp standpoint unless you are moving an incredible amount of air.
Yet ANOTHER fan clutch on my Ford Super Duty. This is the third one in a little over a year. Such a shitty design. My truck sounds like a bus. My warranty is good for another year but I'm already looking for a new truck. This generation isn't nearly as "super" as the last (with the exception of shit oil pans). Anyone using a new(er) GM 2500HD or Dodge heavy duty?
Today is my monday and fuck do i have a headache today... some highlights include Customer: i need transmission bearings and transmission differential seals Me: <slams head against desk> Ok, i will give you quick call back. I kind of figured out what she was talking about. And this customer run a tire shop. Yea, i love my job sometimes. Looking up front pads for an old Toyota priva van part # 500 w/o abs part # 501 excludes w/o abs hurray for double negatives. Looking up a release bearing for a 1993 ford p/u part # 4119 comment w/o ZF trans application 5spd The ZF transmisions is a 5spd, the 4spd was a borg warner. Sometimes i really hate my job.
I was down at the junk yard today to pick up a master cylinder reservoir for a Ford pickup. (they don't sell master cylinders with the reservoir anymore. I wonder what people will do in the coming years when their plastic reservoirs dry up and crack.) Anyway, as I was walking back to the cashiers' counter, I saw a severely neglected Chevy Cavalier with a brake rotor worn down to the cooling fins! For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about, most brake rotors have internal, cast-in cooling fins to keep them from warping from excessive heat. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: Spoiler This is what a regular brake rotor looks like: Spoiler How did they drive that car long enough for that to happen?!
That is far too perfectly sheared off to have been done by wearing away the metal via the brake pads. If it really had been worn down via braking forces, those cooling fins would be torn to shit and I'm guessing you'd wreck the calipers, too, since the pad material would grab onto those fins and shred everything. To me, that looks like the rotor was somehow sheared from the fins, not worn away. Just my opinion.
Agreed. Anybody running cat-back exhaust on a 5.4 Ford? I'm on the market for a system, but I'm not sure which one I want. I've heard good things about Magnaflow, but haven't seen one in person. My truck is a 2008 F150 XLT 4X4 (not Lariat or FX4).
That does look a little too perfect, but i have seen it before. Customer wore the pad out, then wore the steel backing plate for the pad right through the rotor, and then started to wear the piston for the caliper into the fins of the rotor. I was looking for the pictures but cant find them. But i do have these... The first two pictures are of a local greyhound bus. The drive knew the wheel fell off, in town, but thought it was a good idea to drive it back to the depot. I know i posted the last one before, but it is a trailer drum, that someone had welded because it broke, and wanted me to find new bearings for and was going to reuse it.
My wife was rear ended in her 2002 Mustang and it was eventually totaled...spent the weekend picking up this machine for her daily driver. I would lie if I said I wasn't jealous. The 2012 C30 R-Design is comparable in performance to the E36 M3 that I got rid of a few years ago and very elegant inside. She loves it, I wish it was manual.
Quoted from GTE in the R&R thread: Both the one that was totalled 2 years ago and the one I have now did this. Matter of fact the one I have now JUST went into the shop yesterday to see WTF was wrong with it. In my cases it was the mass air sensor. The part was about 140 bucks and he charged me about 40 in labor. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip but its pretty much worse case scenario for me. At least one blown head gasket. Crap.